Paul's Hat Works of San Francisco has been open for over 90 years and is now owned by four young women who continue the old traditional way of making men's custom hats.
Watch this short video: We Continue in the Old Style
It's good to see some shops are continuing to use the old styles to make hats, especially by members of the opposite sex.
Friday, July 1, 2011
Sunday, June 26, 2011
"Ricky": Quintessential Vintage Sportswear
So-called "Ricky" jackets were a staple throughout the Golden Era, particularly during the late 1940s and throughout the 1950s. Gabardine waist-length jackets in bright and crazy colors and patterns evoke images of cool cars, slicked back hair and youthful hipsters from yesteryear like no other piece of clothing.
Which is why I was excited to score the Ricky pictured below.
The styling this jacket is really cool and sleek as is the color scheme: pinkish-gray and purple. The gathered sleeveheads and the gathered yoke in back add another level of drape to the already drapey rayon gabardine material.
"Super-Calisheen"- whatever that is, it must be good!
It has seen some use throughout its years and sports a few battle scars, but finding a Ricky of this style in this good condition and decent size nowadays requires a stroke of luck and perhaps a blessing from the vintage gods.
Another intriguing aspect of this particular jacket is the outline of some sort of shield patch on the left shoulder:
It would be interesting to know who put what patch on this classic jacket and why. The imagination wanders...
Which is why I was excited to score the Ricky pictured below.
click images to enlarge
The styling this jacket is really cool and sleek as is the color scheme: pinkish-gray and purple. The gathered sleeveheads and the gathered yoke in back add another level of drape to the already drapey rayon gabardine material.
"Super-Calisheen"- whatever that is, it must be good!
It has seen some use throughout its years and sports a few battle scars, but finding a Ricky of this style in this good condition and decent size nowadays requires a stroke of luck and perhaps a blessing from the vintage gods.
Another intriguing aspect of this particular jacket is the outline of some sort of shield patch on the left shoulder:
It would be interesting to know who put what patch on this classic jacket and why. The imagination wanders...
Thursday, June 23, 2011
An Edwardian...
...Something.
I don't really know what to call this garment. A Paddock Coat? A Topcoat? I'm going to say it's an Edwardian Covert Coat even though it's fairly short.
Whatever it is, it's in excellent condition for its age and very rare, especially considering its large size. The quality is fantastic, probably the best quality I've ever seen in a garment, vintage or not. Tailors really knew what they were doing back then.
Unfortunately there are no tags to be found anywhere on the coat, which is fairly unusual. Perhaps the client forbade the tailor from attaching any tags. Or the client removed the maker's tags afterward, though there is no evidence that tags were attached to begin with.
The wool is extremely heavy weight and thick; a dense wool like none I've seen before. Even the thick wool of 1950s U.S. Navy Peacoats cannot compare. And the velvour collar, it too is like nothing I've ever felt. Extremely soft and luxurious.
There's no doubt this coat cost its owner quite a bit when it was first made. The quality if first rate as are the materials used, like nothing found today.
I love how the stitching throughout the coat is absolutely perfect and yet under the collar it's far from perfect: gives it character, a personal touch. This shows that it was handmade and therefore a custom job:
A surprisingly colorful lining:
Here's W.H. Taft wearing a similar coat back in the early 1920s.
I don't really know what to call this garment. A Paddock Coat? A Topcoat? I'm going to say it's an Edwardian Covert Coat even though it's fairly short.
Whatever it is, it's in excellent condition for its age and very rare, especially considering its large size. The quality is fantastic, probably the best quality I've ever seen in a garment, vintage or not. Tailors really knew what they were doing back then.
Unfortunately there are no tags to be found anywhere on the coat, which is fairly unusual. Perhaps the client forbade the tailor from attaching any tags. Or the client removed the maker's tags afterward, though there is no evidence that tags were attached to begin with.
The wool is extremely heavy weight and thick; a dense wool like none I've seen before. Even the thick wool of 1950s U.S. Navy Peacoats cannot compare. And the velvour collar, it too is like nothing I've ever felt. Extremely soft and luxurious.
There's no doubt this coat cost its owner quite a bit when it was first made. The quality if first rate as are the materials used, like nothing found today.
click images to enlarge
I love how the stitching throughout the coat is absolutely perfect and yet under the collar it's far from perfect: gives it character, a personal touch. This shows that it was handmade and therefore a custom job:
A surprisingly colorful lining:
Here's W.H. Taft wearing a similar coat back in the early 1920s.
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Shoes as Art
Enjoy the following vintage shoes, most pairs being Florsheims with one pair from Crosby Square, arguably the best shoe maker of the time. Another pair is from Freeman, another high quality maker.
click images to enlarge
Florsheim
Crosby Square
Freeman
Florsheim
Florsheim
Freeman
Crosby Square
Wednesday, May 18, 2011
Photo Shoots, Part 3
This next installment is from roughly a month ago but medium to lighter-weight suits are shown.
Again, the photos are by Cassie the professional photographer.
First, my early 1950s plaid double breasted suit. From the Bold Look era, is has big everything: shoulders, lapels, etc. A good suit to wear downtown.
And lastly is my 1941-dated 3-piece. This suit would probably fall into the "drape" category of suit. The hat is a 1940s Royal De Luxe Stetson.
Excellent proportions.
The shoes are the Stacy Adams "Kingsman".
We'll hopefully have some more of these posts in the future.
Again, the photos are by Cassie the professional photographer.
First, my early 1950s plaid double breasted suit. From the Bold Look era, is has big everything: shoulders, lapels, etc. A good suit to wear downtown.
click images to enlarge
And lastly is my 1941-dated 3-piece. This suit would probably fall into the "drape" category of suit. The hat is a 1940s Royal De Luxe Stetson.
Excellent proportions.
The shoes are the Stacy Adams "Kingsman".
We'll hopefully have some more of these posts in the future.
Friday, May 13, 2011
The Palladium Pampa: Old School Tough
The Palladium Pampa boot is famous for its service with the French Foreign Legion in North Africa throughout the 1950s.
As a French company, Palladium began life in 1920 making tires for the aviation industry but expanded to boots in 1947. Made of canvas and rubber, the Pampa was extraordinarily simple and tough and as a result was adopted by the French Foreign Legion.
The canvas boot was better suited for the hot, dry climate of North Africa than regular leather ankle boots and it excelled there in service with the Legion. The Pampa was used for many years in the deserts and Atlas Mountains of North Africa before eventually being replaced by more modern combat boots. But the story doesn't end there.
In 2009 Palladium reintroduced the Pampa to a new generation. While the same basic design remained roughly the same, many new variations were created with dozens of different color schemes being offered along with boots made from materials other than canvas. The many different styles and colors of boots can be found at the Palladium website. Also check out the "Explorations" link at the forementioned website to view some neat videos and images of interesting and sometimes forgotten places.
I recently picked up a pair of Pampa boots on a whim and am pleasantly surprised. While the boots look rough and rugged on the outside, they are extremely comfortable and could easily be worn all day long if needed. The laces provided are strong and plenty long to accommodate a variety of knots. One issue I do have with wearing them is they seem to trap heat inside, cooking the wearer's feet even on days that aren't overly hot. Though, in my mind that's a small price to pay to wear such tough, historical and cool-looking boots. The sizing appears to be right on the money.
The one piece rubber sole lends itself to durability as there are no weak seams that could split or seperate from use. The soles also have very deep and aggressive treads to help the wearer keep his footing on the harshest terrain. Notice the treads in the photo below along with the company branding on the ankle, much like that of vintage Keds and Chuck Taylors:
While I haven't owned these Pampas for very long, they appear to be a quality product that will last quite a while and will provide good use.
I intend to go hiking, fishing, shooting and rough around in these for the next couple months and will report the results back here.
So keep an eye out for that.
As a French company, Palladium began life in 1920 making tires for the aviation industry but expanded to boots in 1947. Made of canvas and rubber, the Pampa was extraordinarily simple and tough and as a result was adopted by the French Foreign Legion.
click images to enlarge
The canvas boot was better suited for the hot, dry climate of North Africa than regular leather ankle boots and it excelled there in service with the Legion. The Pampa was used for many years in the deserts and Atlas Mountains of North Africa before eventually being replaced by more modern combat boots. But the story doesn't end there.
In 2009 Palladium reintroduced the Pampa to a new generation. While the same basic design remained roughly the same, many new variations were created with dozens of different color schemes being offered along with boots made from materials other than canvas. The many different styles and colors of boots can be found at the Palladium website. Also check out the "Explorations" link at the forementioned website to view some neat videos and images of interesting and sometimes forgotten places.
I recently picked up a pair of Pampa boots on a whim and am pleasantly surprised. While the boots look rough and rugged on the outside, they are extremely comfortable and could easily be worn all day long if needed. The laces provided are strong and plenty long to accommodate a variety of knots. One issue I do have with wearing them is they seem to trap heat inside, cooking the wearer's feet even on days that aren't overly hot. Though, in my mind that's a small price to pay to wear such tough, historical and cool-looking boots. The sizing appears to be right on the money.
The one piece rubber sole lends itself to durability as there are no weak seams that could split or seperate from use. The soles also have very deep and aggressive treads to help the wearer keep his footing on the harshest terrain. Notice the treads in the photo below along with the company branding on the ankle, much like that of vintage Keds and Chuck Taylors:
While I haven't owned these Pampas for very long, they appear to be a quality product that will last quite a while and will provide good use.
I intend to go hiking, fishing, shooting and rough around in these for the next couple months and will report the results back here.
So keep an eye out for that.
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
WIW: Spring Madras
Madras has recently come into fashion with younger folks but, unsurprisingly, it is a more traditional fabric pattern that your grandparents or great grandparents were putting to use long ago. Below are a few 1930s Esquire and Apparel Arts illustrations that put "Indian Madras", as they called it, to work.
And while I'd never be caught dead in this suit, the shirt did give me a bit of inspiration last Sunday:
Here is my take on the Madras shirt/jacket combination.
Madras is a loud fabric pattern and therefore should be worn with restraint. However, when worn right it will add a dash of color to any warm weather outfit.
click images to enlarge
And while I'd never be caught dead in this suit, the shirt did give me a bit of inspiration last Sunday:
Here is my take on the Madras shirt/jacket combination.
Madras is a loud fabric pattern and therefore should be worn with restraint. However, when worn right it will add a dash of color to any warm weather outfit.
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