Saturday, July 30, 2011

Allen Edmonds Fall Catalog

The Fall 2011 AE catalog is now out. You'll notice many of the regular styles along with a few new ones including those featured in the "Independence Collection". A longwing with less bulky soles? Yes, please.

Allen Edmonds is a quality shoe company that not only makes a very fine product but will also refurbish and refinish old and used AE shoes at a very fair price. I own several pairs of AE shoes and have been very happy with their fit, finish, style and comfort. The average price for a pair of Allen Edmonds shoes is $300 though prices vary depending on style and collection. These aren't the average $100 dress shoe you find at the mall; these will last a lifetime or longer if cared for properly.

Allen Edmonds is just one mid- to upper price and quality range shoe manufacturer that creates products on par with the style and quality of vintage manufacturers. Don't hesitate to make a purchase from this company, especially now that the new Fall styles are out.

Monday, July 25, 2011

WIW: Heat and Hollywood

To beat the heat sometimes you have to go the simple route: shirt, tie and trousers. No suit, no jacket. It makes for a classic look in the heat of the day, especially if the trousers are high-waisted.

-1950s NOS Hollywood Waist trousers
-1940s painted palm tree tie
-1940s barely used Freeman shoes
-1940s Stetson Panama hat
-Modern shirt

click images to enlarge

The trousers shown were until recently NOS (New-Old-Stock) meaning they were never worn, never hemmed and still had the original tags attached. Finding such an item is rare, especially when you factor in that these are highly desirable Hollywood-waisted trousers, not to mention the baby blue color.

What is a Hollywood Waist? As the photo below shows, a Hollywood Waist has no waistband. The material is continuous from the leg hem all the way up to the waist. Such a waist makes for a sleek pant.

It also helps that Hollywood-waisted trousers are normally very high-waisted with a rise of 12 inches or greater. Trousers with such high waists will sit at or above the wearer's navel and around the natural waistline, making them wear more comfortably than trousers that sit on the hips. It also gives the wearer a more athletic and long-legged appearance, something shorter men should utilize. Though, there is a point at which trousers can become too high waisted...

^I have to admit, those do drape pretty well.

But I digress.

Of note is the 'slubbing', those woven lines in the fabric. Slubbing could be considered a flaw in the material but is often used to good effect as decoration and texture. Slubbing is quite common in Golden Era clothing, specifically from the mid-1940s through to the 1950s.

Note the slubbing as well as the fine workmanship of the shoes:

The original tag for my trousers, priced at $6.95 which is roughly $63 in today's money. I'm happy to have paid only $25 for 'em.

Friday, July 1, 2011

Four Women and Men's Hats

Paul's Hat Works of San Francisco has been open for over 90 years and is now owned by four young women who continue the old traditional way of making men's custom hats.

Watch this short video: We Continue in the Old Style

It's good to see some shops are continuing to use the old styles to make hats, especially by members of the opposite sex.


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