The Duffle Coat: Unrefined Style

Like many garments found in our closets, the duffle coat has its roots firmly set in the military.

Originally introduced in the Royal Navy, the duffle coat is a loose, rugged coat that was originally designed with utility in mind but can add a casual dash of character to an outfit.

A duffle coat is identified by the heavy weight wool it is made of along with its hood, double patch pockets, medium length skirt and, most notably, toggles made of either horn or wood. The coat may or may not have a hidden zipper though traditionally the zipper is lacking.

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The duffle coat is usually found in traditional colors like camel, dove gray and navy though they can have many other colors and patterns to them, as my Tommy Hilfiger duffle coat below demonstrates.

Wear a duffle coat casually with either your everyday clothes or a sport coat and tie. It is a garment that was orginally meant to keep the wearer dry and warm on the decks of ships and submarines during war and as such should be paired with other hardy pieces. Wool, flannel, corduroy, denim and knits work well with the duffle coat.

WW1 RN submarine officer

A duffle coat will serve you well as these last cold days of winter fade away into Spring.

WIW: Penney's Overcoat

The recent cool weather called for wearing an overcoat today. While it was fairly cold, it wasn't cold enough yet for my heavy overcoats.

Therefore, I broke out and for the first time wore my light-weight 1930s belted overcoat.

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I've had this for roughly a year but it needed some alterations, including the replacement of the buttons. Even so, the arms are still a tad short but I'm not too worried about that, it's a normal situation for me.

Belted overcoats were pretty common over in Europe during the 1930s but was not as common over in the states. It's interesting that while a majority of American trench coats (both vintage and modern) are fully belted, very few American overcoats (both vintage and modern) have belts. Who really knows why, perhaps just different societies favoring different styles: a geographic and cultural thing. A plain buttoned belt-less front was enough for most American men, though you can see a belted overcoat in the 1936 New York City photograph below:


My overcoat is somewhat lightweight and unconstructed, almost like a robe. It has lazy peaked lapels that slightly slope downward along with patch pockets but lacks a breast pocket.

The back of the coat is as interesting as the front: a full-length center gusset runs down the back ending with pleats in the skirt. This helps the well-fitted overcoat move with the wearer.



The pleated 'vent' (though not a true vent) is very similar to the Paddock Coat in the 1935 Apparel Arts illustration below:



Despite the short arms I'm happy with this piece. Vintage American belted overcoats are difficult to find and this is a fine example of one.

It's That Time Again

Even while it's still cold outside and we pray for no more snow, it's that wonderful time of the year when we start thinking of Spring and Summer (Spring does start later this month, after all). And while the cold weather is sure to continue least to the end of the month, retailers are at that transition point when they've brought in new Spring styles while placing the old Winter styles on sale.

The best of both worlds.

This is a great time to scope out the new warm weather styles (everything old is new again), color combos and fabrics while saving a bundle on heavy winter clothing that you can still use for the rest of this Winter or save for when the cold blows in again next year.



Below are a few things that await you on this blog when the warm weather does finally hit, just to give you a small taste, a sneak peek:

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Until then, enjoy the rest of the cold weather. Hopefully we'll be able to discuss overcoats before it becomes too warm to wear them.

WIW: the Blues

It was tweedy weather out yesterday so for the first time this winter I donned my blue tweed 3-piece sports suit from Kaufmann's in Pittsburgh. Why is it a sports suit?

It's very heavy tweed for cold country weather and the jacket has two feature unique to vintage sports suits/jackets: a short single vent in the back and two patch pockets on the jacket skirt. You won't see these very often on non-sport and more conservative suits before the 1950s.

Mine is dated September 1940.

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WIW: Zoot Influence?

Haven't done one of these for a while since I've had the misfortune to work every Sunday for as long as I can remember.

For the last few days it's been below 0 degrees F. Perfect weather for overcoats, scarves and gloves.

Today:
*Astrakhan overcoat from the '30s
*Stetson Special from the late '30s
*Flannel suit from the mid-'40s
*Modern cashmere scarf
*Tie is '30s too

**click photos to enlarge**



The gloves are NOS (no longer) deerskin gloves from the '30s, probably.





The suit seems to have some zoot influence though is much more conservative in style. The sleek vertical design as well as the trouser taper below the knee points to that influence. If the jacket was longer in the body it would look very much like this zoot suit:

Winter Wonderland

Winter has not officially begun but those of us in the colder climates know that he's already arrived, unofficially. The foot of snow, 50 MPH winds and freezing rain we got in parts of the Midwest is testament to his arrival.

Winter can be a bleak season when you might not want to venture out of doors, understandably so. But with the drop in temperatures and that fluffy white stuff covering the ground comes the overcoats, tweed suits, scarves and heavy weight fedoras. It is a high point in the style year just like the summer, though on the opposite end of the spectrum. The yearly cycle of sartorialistic yin and yang, winter and summer, respectively. Both are equally important but completely different in fabrics, colors and cut.

In celebration of winter, take a look at these Esquire and Apparel Arts illustrations from the 1930s. Notice the multiple different styles of overcoats and the varieties in colors, hat choices and suits.

Let's start off with a couple items that are often overlooked but are immensely important to tie a look together: socks and shoes for winter.

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Argyle is a favorite sock pattern of mine and goes very well with casual looks. Argyle socks are also easily found at your nearest GAP, J.C. Penney , Younkers and other popular clothing outlets. I prefer the GAP socks because their patterns and styles change with each season, they're priced fairly and are good quality.



Notice the green Tartan socks on the right side:








Notice the large variety of overcoats pictured, from a regular wool overcoat with a nice windowpane pattern to an overcoat with a fur collar and another made entirely out of fur in the background. The Golden Era was truly an age of variety.
The man in the fur overcoat is also wearing a black Derby with a brown/tan coat. Black and brown can work together.


Another fur-collared overcoat. They weren't squeamish about the use of fur. I consider that a good thing.


The ingrediants for the collegiate winter look.


Winter offers a plethora of hats to keep our heads and ears warm. Notice the article at the bottom of the page states that only one "snap brim hat is neccessary" as well as some sort of country hat, but every other hat on the page is absolutely needed. Goes to show that one can have even a hat wardrobe.





A nice formal overcoat with an Astrakhan fur collar.


Scarves are a wonderful accessory that can help mature and liven up even the dullest outfit. Mix and match colors and textures depending upon the occasion and create an individual style for yourself. Scarves are the winter brother of the summer ascot.


Nothing says style like skiing in a suit, preferably a sport suit with a belted back, bi-swing back and/or a center gusset.



Try variety this winter.