An Intro to Overcoats

This is a topic I've been meaning to discuss for some time now.  It's fitting that I post this piece on the day the Midwest is receiving not just a winter storm but a blizzard.

Perfect timing.

Overcoats.  What does that word do to you?  What pops into your mind when you first hear it?  Do you picture an overcoat as being heavy, bulky, stiff and itchy or soft, warm, sleek and comfortable?

The category that is represented by the word 'overcoat' is vast and full of many different styles of coats.  So whether you pictured the big, bulky overcoat or the stylish, sleek coat your idea was probably correct, if limited.

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Comparison: the overcoat of the 1940s and a 'modern' one of the late 1950s.

The overcoat is an old garment with one simple goal in mind: keep the wearer warm.  Now, that doesn't mean it can't be jazzed up a bit to look stylish, just that the main goal is warmth and that style is secondary.  If it succeeds at the latter but fails at the former, well, it makes a poor coat of any kind.  The overcoat has its roots in the military with the Greatcoat, hence its utilitarian purpose.  But the overcoat would not have survived so long had it not grown to be stylish.  From the dull military garment made of rough, thick wool with brass buttons to the stylish and gentlemanly garment of the 1930s, the overcoat has gone through many different rebirths.  

Yesteryear the overcoat was a staple of the wardrobe.  It provided, obviously, warmth on a cold day and most often looked quite snappy.  There were many different and unique styles of overcoats back then, especially during the Golden Era.  The late 1920s to the early 1940s was the apogee of overcoat design.  The materials, construction, styles, price, and availability of overcoats were all outstanding.  Even department stores like J.C. Penney's and Younkers carried interesting and well constructed overcoats back then.  The overcoat was a necessity, and a stylish one at that.  Every man had one, whether he was a wealthy businessman or politician right down to the homeless man on the street.

No more.

The overcoat of today is not only rare to see in its natural habitat (being worn), it's also boring, rather poorly made, and usually very high priced for what you get.  Maybe that's why so few men wear them.  When was the last time you saw a modern overcoat with a belted back?  A loud yet attractive plaid fabric pattern?  Pleating and an impeccable fit?  Not today unless you spend $600+ for a made-to-measure or bespoke overcoat.  But not many of us can afford something like that.

Yawn.  Wake me when it at least grows some peaked lapels.

In the next few posts of this series we'll take an in-depth look at different styles and examples of vintage overcoats and see just what the overcoat was really meant to be: not only warm but also classically stylish.

WIW: Penney's Overcoat

The recent cool weather called for wearing an overcoat today. While it was fairly cold, it wasn't cold enough yet for my heavy overcoats.

Therefore, I broke out and for the first time wore my light-weight 1930s belted overcoat.

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I've had this for roughly a year but it needed some alterations, including the replacement of the buttons. Even so, the arms are still a tad short but I'm not too worried about that, it's a normal situation for me.

Belted overcoats were pretty common over in Europe during the 1930s but was not as common over in the states. It's interesting that while a majority of American trench coats (both vintage and modern) are fully belted, very few American overcoats (both vintage and modern) have belts. Who really knows why, perhaps just different societies favoring different styles: a geographic and cultural thing. A plain buttoned belt-less front was enough for most American men, though you can see a belted overcoat in the 1936 New York City photograph below:


My overcoat is somewhat lightweight and unconstructed, almost like a robe. It has lazy peaked lapels that slightly slope downward along with patch pockets but lacks a breast pocket.

The back of the coat is as interesting as the front: a full-length center gusset runs down the back ending with pleats in the skirt. This helps the well-fitted overcoat move with the wearer.



The pleated 'vent' (though not a true vent) is very similar to the Paddock Coat in the 1935 Apparel Arts illustration below:



Despite the short arms I'm happy with this piece. Vintage American belted overcoats are difficult to find and this is a fine example of one.

WIW: Zoot Influence?

Haven't done one of these for a while since I've had the misfortune to work every Sunday for as long as I can remember.

For the last few days it's been below 0 degrees F. Perfect weather for overcoats, scarves and gloves.

Today:
*Astrakhan overcoat from the '30s
*Stetson Special from the late '30s
*Flannel suit from the mid-'40s
*Modern cashmere scarf
*Tie is '30s too

**click photos to enlarge**



The gloves are NOS (no longer) deerskin gloves from the '30s, probably.





The suit seems to have some zoot influence though is much more conservative in style. The sleek vertical design as well as the trouser taper below the knee points to that influence. If the jacket was longer in the body it would look very much like this zoot suit:

WIW

Had company yesterday so I wanted to look nice. I was leaning toward an early 1950s 'hepcat' look but decided on this late-1930s/early-1940s look instead.
A nice, gentle snow Saturday and Sunday. Perfect tweed and overcoat weather.

*broke out the brown overcoat for the first time this winter
*1940s Dobbs fedora
*1930s tie
*September 1940-dated Kaufmann suit
*AE shoes

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WIW

Yesterday I wore my mid-1940s flannel suit (again). It fits too well not to wear.

I need your opinion. My choice of footwear yesterday was questionable at best. What are your thoughts? Too big? Too loud? Do they go well with this suit?

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;)

Boy, I look creepy in that photo.

All joking aside, this is my favorite suit. It must have been made for me in a former life; it just fits too well. It's scary in a good way. It'll take a masterpiece of vintage tailoring to knock this on off its pedestal.

Here's a look at the tie. It's new to me and wonderfully 1940s.

The hat is new to me as well. It's a 1940s Dobbs fedora with a pleated bow. Wonderful.


Also new to both you and I, here is a late-1930s overcoat. Fits me beautifully, just like the suit.

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If you detected an interesting texture on the overcoat, you have good eyes. Here's a closeup of the curly mystery fabric.

Made in northeastern Iowa, where I obtained it.

The only tag would have you believe the curly mystery fabric is alpaca, but I'm sceptical.

Anyone know what "Chetelham fabric" is exacly (other than a curly mystery fabric)?

I thoroughly enjoy overcoat weather, just as long as I'm not without an overcoat.

Cheers!

Feelin' of the Season

This morning I felt a tinge of Fall in the air, the first time this year. Sure, there's still plenty of warm weather to be had but there's no reason why we can't look forward to cooler temperatures, when the style envolope is flung wide open after the slow summer season.

Ironic that over the weekend I was lucky enough to pluck this fantastic overcoat from a somewhat local junk shop.

At first it struck me as a woman's overcoat since it could be buttoned either left-over-right or right-over-left. The fancy adjustment belt on the back and the nipped waist also made me think "female".

But, thankfully, my first impressions were wrong. It is indeed a men's overcoat and a fancy one at that. Overall it weighs 6 pounds and is just over 4 feet long. Definitely not a woman's coat.

What this reminds me of is the type of coat you would often see in those stylized 1920's clothing advertisments where men have impossibly thin waists and long, skinny legs.

And as you can see in the picture, like those old advertisments suggest, the waist is exceptionally thin! Several darts above the pockets and in the back create the thinning shape that you see. You won't see many overcoats like this one anymore. It is completely outdated, which makes it a beautiful thing.

And it was not a common man's overcoat, no, it was meant to be worn to formal occasions by someone who could afford it. The huge, deep peaked lapels convey power as does the double breasted construction. The back belt adds a bit more flare to an already stylish coat. The nipped waist shows off the wearer's athletic build. And it does all of this while keeping the owner warm on a frosty day.

What would you pay for such a coat? Probably quite a bit, especially if it fit well. However, you'll be amazed to know that I handed over a sinlge Hamilton to add this overcoat to my budding collection. This speaks volumes. Yes, there still are good deals out there just waiting to be had. And you don't have to pull your hair out dealing with Ebay.

Just frequent so-called 'junk shops' A.K.A. thrift stores. Antique shops also have good finds occasionally, though they may be overpriced. Some of the nicest things are pulled out of the deepest, darkest most dirty corners of the junkiest places. This overcoat is a testament to that. All you need is a wee bit of patience.

And, if you're wondering what I wore today here's (unfortunately) a poor quality photo. The suit is modern, 100% wool, has a beautiful blue plaid pattern and was found at a local Goodwill. The tie is vintage 1950s, shoes are Botany 500's and the hat is a vintage 1950s Royal Stetson.

So, here's to a new coming season. May you enjoy the cooler weather and the beautiful colors. Cheers from a happy camper.
Billy