Unique Newbies

Yep, the number of hats continues to grow.

Recently I've been going after more unusual hats. I have more than plenty wide brim, tall crown lined fedoras in different colors from different companies. I'm trying for some of the different ones to round out the collection.

First up we have this brown light-weight/summer-weight Mallory "Nokabout". I got it off ebay for a decent price, though it was quite dusty and crumpled when I recieved it. I'd date this hat from the late-1930 to the 1940s.

After a couple supremely long days on the block...

...and it was good as new.

Q: What makes it a light-weight hat?
A: The lack of a liner and the presence of the company logo on the crown felt.

Continuing with summer hats, here's my Champ boater. It was $20 at a junk shop I regularly visit. The owner knows I collect and wear old hats so as I was about to leave the shop she pointed out a couple old hat boxes hidden away where I would have never looked. One box contained an incomplete fedora body (missing the liner, ribbon and bow) while the other one held two boaters. I picked the better of the two.

Dated to the 1950s because of the dark brown textured sweatband, it's in nearly unused condition. I just don't know if I'm brave enough to wear it yet, though it would look nice with a good seersucker.

And last but definitly not least is this Cavanagh Brand hat. Best know for its rare and no longer made cavanagh edge, the Cavanagh company was a relatively high-end hat manufacturer back in the day.

The hat below is unique in that it is my only Cavanagh hat as well as it has a different style. While the brim has a pencil curl it lacks the bound edge so often seen on formal homburgs. So what is this hat? A fedora? A less formal homburg? Some kind of hybrid?

What puzzles me more is my inability to date it. It's outward appearance is that of a 1950s or even an early 1960s hat. The crown is relatively low and a bit tapered, though not bad. The brim, however, measures a full 2 1/2". Definitely not a Stingy.

The interior is very clean, virtually unworn...
...and the sweatband is brown. But it's not the type of sweatband found on 1950s hats (dark brown, textured, etc.). My gut says 1940s, so maybe I need to trust it.

Whatever the date, it's quite a unique hat.

All three of them are.

Graduation Weekend

Although I finished with college in December of last year I finally walked last weekend. Saturday I wore this classy look:

Friday and Sunday I wore the outfit below (a variation of it on Saturday under the drapes).

This shirt has yellow stripes in with the white stripes. The yellow doesn't show up well in pics.

You're probably wondering about the jacket. I bought this travel-style jacket last week at Younkers. It's a Clairborne.

It has two large patch pockets, no breast pocket. The 'pleats' in the pockets are just for show and don't function. There is a belted back but no action to it. The belt seems a tad lower than it should be but it's no big problem, I was just happy to see a belted back! No vents. 100% cotton and fully lined. It's a bit heavy and hot for summer wear, would work better in the spring.

I settled for a 40R. The 38R fit me perfectly except the body was just too short. The sleeves for both sizes were long enough. It was on sale (originally $125) and while it was still a bit much, I liked it too well to pass by.

It has a very nice vintage feel to it. I really like belted backs and was quite pleased to see a modern summer jacket with one even if there was not bi-swing back or pleats with it. The high button stance is quite high and adds to the vintage look. This is my first white jacket (off white to be exact) and am quite pleased with it.

What I Wore Sunday

Click to enlarge (don't mind the wrinkles, modern light-weight fabrics can't take what vintage fabrics can).

Really old U.S. military buttons turned into cufflinks a while ago. These are old.

It's All in the Armholes

I was recently asked what the difference was between high and low armholes. There is much, like the difference between day and night.

Armholes can make or break a suit jacket. Unfortunately for us today most modern jackets fail when it comes to armholes. Suits today are made with low armholes. This means the armhole is larger and goes down further on the body of the jacket. Sure, low armholes make it easier to put the jacket on and take it off but try lifting your arms above your head and you're practically smothered by the jacket. The lapels bow out, the body spreads, the shoulders rise and the cuff moves down the arm. It's not very comfortable nor useful. And it's ugly.

Just take a look at this modern suit jacket with low armholes.

Unattractive and not very useful at all. Uncomfortable, infact.

Now take a look at this suit jacket from the 1920s/early 1930s with high armholes.

Vintage suits nearly always had high armholes. High armholes are cut higher under the armpit and don't deform the jacket when the arms rise. Truly high armholes might be a tad uncomfortable (tight under the armpits) at first for anyone who normally wears jackets with low armholes but they are amazed when they lift their arms and the jacket stays in place.

But high armholes are a lost art. Today practically no off-the-rack suits and very few custom jackets are made with high armholes. Perhaps this is due to the ease that low armholed jackets slip on and off (high armholed jackets are a bit more difficult, usually one arm at a time). Yet jackets are meant to be worn and if a jacket is uncomfortable or badly made (low armholes are a bad design) I do not want to wear it. I take it off. At least that part is easy thanks to the low armholes...

Low armholes are the main reason modern jackets just don't seem to fit even when they are well cut. A jacket that is perfectly shaped to your body will still feel weird and wear wrong if it has low armholes. Hopefully the pendulum will swing back to high armholes like back before armholes went bad in the 1960s.

That's why Gene Kelly and Fred Astaire were able to dance around all day and still be comfortable in their suits. It's all in the armholes.

What I Wore Yesterday

Nothing fancy, just plain, simple and striking. A bit more modern than usual.

*Target suit
*Target tie
*Younkers shirt with French Cuffs
*Vintage cuff links and tie bar
*Black toecap shoes

Of course, dressing like a dandy once in a while doesn't hurt either. I wore this again last week, this time at home rather than than travelling.

Target Suit

Target is selling suits for under $100. I bought one today. They are nice for the price. Not perfect, but still nice.

They also have some classic-pattern ties and decent shirts as well as a pretty cool vest in different fabric patterns and colors. Most of their ties are $20, a bit high but they are 100% silk. I bought one tie with a blue and white regimental pattern, very classy.

I bought a dark gray 3-button suit with pinstripes. Size 38R jacket, 32x32 flat-front trousers and no cuff. Surprisingly, the jacket sleeves are long enough for my monkey arms (usually I have to let jacket sleeves out a bit). Like most off-the-rack suits, it has low armholes and fails the armhole test so it will rise up whenever you raise your arms (see pics below). The jacket fits well around the torso and has some shape around the waist, not your usual "sack suit".

The trousers have medium rise and sit around the hips. They have a bit of taper but nothing extreme.

So, all in all a modern cut.

The fabric is light-weight but drapes well. It's a polyester/rayon blend but is not hot to wear.

The tie is 100% silk and is long, like most modern ties. Width is similar to 1930s ties. The material is thick but can be tied in skinnier knots, as the photos show. The length shown is as short as I can get it without tying a Windsor knot. I do like the color scheme, though, and it will make a nice spring/summer tie.

Total cost of the suit and tie was $112, not expensive by any means. Overall I'd say it's a good buy on a budget, though if you can afford more definitely look elsewhere before buying a Target suit.

Yep, low armholes. FAIL!

Looks better than some businessmen with higher end suits!

What I Wore and Two 'New' Hats

Was up visiting my friends from college yesterday so I had to be extra spiffy.

*Vintage Champ fedora (more below)
*Modern Arrow shirt
*1930s "Sugar and Spice" tie
*Modern 6x3 jacket
*Vintage vest
*Vintage watch chain
*Modern full-cut trousers
*Socks from the Gap
*Modern spectators
*Modern suspenders

Click on the first photo to enlarge.

I must say, I love that 6x3 jacket. It fits me so well and the lazy peaked lapels are so early 20th century in design.

I was also pleased how a sliver of sock showed when I walked, matching with my red pocket square. And while the tie was subtle (allowing the socks and pocket square to steal the show), it added nicely with a touch of color. Yes, this will be a great summer suit.

But what about the hat?

Well, it's a new one to me. It is a 1940s Champ "Diplomat" in "light Ecru". Size 6 7/8", it's a tad small (though it fits me more like a 7") but I was able to stretch it to a more comfortable size. It's in absolutely perfect condition. It's an unusual pinkish-tan/salmon color with a chocolate-brown ribbon and tan edging on the brim. Looks very much like the desirable Stetson Whippet. $4.

If you have ever found something of great value then you know what it was like for me finding this hat.

The second is an Imperial Stetson, size 7 1/8" (just my size). It has about a wide 3" brim and around a 4 1/2" crown. Tan in color, it has decorative stitching along the brim and on the felt ribbon. Dobbs made a hat in a similar style called the "Gay Prince".

*giggle snort*

Of course, it had a different meaning back then, but it's so difficult to remove a connotation from something that's been so ingrained into our society.

It has the softest felt I've ever seen. Even with steam it doesn't want to keep a bash; there's no stiffener at all. Unfortunately it has a couple of stains and moth nips, though they are on the top of the crown so they can't be seen when it is bashed. $10.

Proof that nice hats are still out there.

Billy