Showing posts with label fedora. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fedora. Show all posts

Monday, March 24, 2014

Let the New Wave Begin...

There's a new wave of vintage items arriving for sale at the Houndstooth Haberdashery.  There'll be some very nice pieces coming up within the next two weeks or so for all sizes, styles, and price ranges.

Beginning this next wave strong are two beautiful hats in size 7 1/2.

First is a 1930s slightly 'fuzzy' "University Club" fedora with some gorgeous proportions: a tall, straight-sided crown with a fairly narrow yet shapely brim.  Just the way I like 'em.  This one has no issues at all.  As near perfect condition as an 80ish year old hat can get.  Feast your eyes upon this hat, which can be found for sale by clicking here.

click images to enlarge







Now that we have you drooling, check out the next contestant.  It's a 1940s Stetson homburg in black, perfect for that dinner suit you've been dying to wear but didn't because you lacked the right hat.  It's in very nice condition (for being 70ish years old) with only a couple very minor issues that won't keep you from wearing it right out of the box.  







Don't miss out on these two spectacular hats.  These kind of quality hats in this size are getting harder to find.  Get your dapper on!






Tuesday, April 23, 2013

New Hats at the Houndstooth Haberdashery.

Some new Spring arrivals at the Houndstooth Kid Haberdashery.  These hats are in a variety of styles, conditions, and sizes.  Sizes range from medium to large.



Here is a taste of what you'll find at the Haberdashery.

click images to enlarge









Friday, June 29, 2012

Necessity is the Mother of Invention

Nutella is indispensable when blocking a hat.

Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Hollywood: Inventor of Legend, Destroyer of Vintage

Hollywood has been an important force in the American social scene for about a century now, often giving us inspirational, insightful and, no doubt, entertaining films and television. Rocky, It's a Wonderful Life, The Best Years of Our Lives, Gone With the Wind, Rear Window, etc. The list goes on.

Those films and many others are legends, a normal part of popular culture. That's what Hollywood is known for: creating and changing popular culture.


Kid Galahad


Something Hollywood is not well know for is destroying vintage clothing but it is second to none in that regard.

It may or may not be common knowledge that Hollywood regularly uses original vintage clothing in the making of its films and TV shows. There are two main reasons for this: first, modern reproductions are often unable to capture the look and feel of Golden Era clothing and, secondly, real vintage clothing is often much cheaper to buy or rent than it is to reproduce. And that second part, the price, is the main reason Hollywood opts for the real deal.

And here's the rub: film and theater are rough business and things get destroyed, especially 70-year-old clothing. Look at the recent movie "Hugo" by director Martin Scorsese. According to the costume designer for that movie, Sandy Powell, hundreds of vintage pieces were destroyed during filming:

"There were literally over 1,000 costumes, so it took us a long time. We contracted costume rental companies, and we actually did a lot of buying, we sort of scoured markets and secondhand stores both in London where it was filmed and also in Paris; there are great flea markets there. And then we were filming so long, some of the extras were wearing the same clothing for weeks on end, and a lot of the original vintage pieces actually ended up falling apart, disintegrating."


The movie "Titanic" was just as bad, using many original vintage pieces during filming, especially dresses and gowns.  These were unfortunately shredded by the end of filming, just like the pieces used in "Hugo".
 
History disintegrating and being destroyed just to make a movie. If an architecturally important building or a valuable piece of artwork were purposely destroyed for the filming of a movie there would be an outcry from the media and the public. Yet when hundreds of historical pieces of clothing are allowed to fall apart for the same reason there is nothing.

Vintage fedora ruined in "Boardwalk Empire".


Several months ago I was approached by a costume designer from a popular and well known cable TV channel. They were looking for original 1940s/early 1950s pieces of men's clothing for an upcoming series about a detective in 1950s Los Angeles.  I was enthusiastic about supplying vintage to be used in the production of the TV show but soon remembered the horror stories like those above.  As a result, although I would have loved to participate in and supply the filming, I denied the studio both the sale and rental of my vintage (many of the same pieces found at the haberdashery).  I was even told by the costume designer that pieces rented were not guaranteed to be returned in the same condition and may not be returned at all, having 'disappeared' from the set.  And anything bought might be thrown out after filming.

That is unacceptable.

Vintage is a non-renewable resource.  Once it's gone, it's gone.  Reproductions will always be around and plentiful but collectors of vintage clothing are like the Hollywood studios: we prefer the real deal.  And while vintage is still fairly easy to find it is getting more difficult.  Eventually it will be impossible to find.  The days of large costume departments are gone: it's much easier (and cheaper) to buy 'new' costumes for a movie and throw them out at the end of filming.  It's the result of our disposable society.

What can be done to stem the destruction that Hollywood is sowing?  Little if anything.  No one really cares, except for those few vintage nerds like ourselves.  All we can do is watch history disappear piece by piece, right before our eyes. 

And all of it caught on film...

Friday, July 1, 2011

Four Women and Men's Hats

Paul's Hat Works of San Francisco has been open for over 90 years and is now owned by four young women who continue the old traditional way of making men's custom hats.

Watch this short video: We Continue in the Old Style

It's good to see some shops are continuing to use the old styles to make hats, especially by members of the opposite sex.

Friday, October 1, 2010

More Fuzzies

Two new 'velvours' for me, both purchased within roughly the last month.

This first one is from the 1920s and seen better days but definitely has a lot of life left. The liner is gone.

click images to enlarge







This Borsalino "Angora" imported into the U.S. from Italy dates from the 1930s. It's in excellent condition and even has a trolley cord. Plus is a gorgeous pinkish-gray:







And they're both my size.

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Hat Etiquette in the Post-modern Age

The Wall Street Journal recently had an article discussing hat etiquette in today's world. If you think about it, guys nowadays either don't know hat etiquette at all or have an outdated view of hat etiquette. Let's face it, hat etiquette hasn't changed since the Golden Era but the rest of the world has.

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Discovering Hats, a New Generation Brims With Anxiety Over Etiquette
Old Rules Flummox Young Hipsters; 'I'm Wearing an $80 Fedora!'

By RAY A. SMITH

Hector Ramirez sort of knows, from watching old movies, that men are supposed to take off their hats when indoors. But the 19-year-old Brown University student wears fedoras in class—with jeans—anyway.

"If I'm wearing a hat and it's part of my look, I don't think I should have to take it off," he says. On a recent trip to New York, an usher at a church had to remind him to take off his fedora. "I was wearing it all day and I guess I kind of just forgot I had it on."

Inspired by designer runway shows, celebrities such as Justin Timberlake and even, in some cases, old pictures of Frank Sinatra, more young men are going mad for hats. But the hat renaissance is creating a quandary for a generation of men and boys who grew up without learning hat-wearing etiquette from their fathers. Many are making up their own rules about when and where to take them off.



The trend may be old hat to hipsters in areas like Williamsburg, Brooklyn, who started wearing fedoras, rounded derby hats and, in warmer weather, straw hats, more than two years ago. But now hats are starting to catch on among some men in suburbs, the Midwest and beyond. Gap and J. Crew say they have witnessed strong hat sales this spring and summer while department stores like Barneys New York have been expanding their assortments after years of general indifference to hats. Sales of designer-brand "blocked" hats such as fedoras and straw hats in particular "are definitely robust," says Jay Bell, a vice president at Barneys.

It's a bittersweet turn of events for hatmakers, who witnessed their business fall off a cliff in the 1960s, when legions of men abandoned wearing hats.

Many companies are no longer around to see the current revival. The number of manufacturers of fur-felt hats, wool-felt hats and hat forms in the U.S. totaled 185 in 1947, according to the Census Bureau. Now there are only three big hatmakers in the U.S. making fur-felt hats and wool-felt hats, says Jack Lambert, a former vice president of the Headwear Association.

Just 20% of hats sold in the U.S. are made in the U.S versus 90% in the 1940s, estimates Mr. Lambert, who is vice president of headwear company Dorfman Pacific.
In the 1930s, '40s, and parts of the '50s, a man wasn't considered fully dressed unless he had a hat on. But by the 1960s, hat wearing fell off, partly as a result of longer hairstyles, cars with lower roofs and resistance from some World War II vets who didn't want to wear things on their heads after wearing helmets for so long.

John F. Kennedy's habit of not wearing a hat was seen as the final blow for hat wearing.

Today, confusion over the rules of hat wearing is leading to some awkward situations.
Eric Soler of Hackensack, N.J., took offense when he tried to enter a bar in Hoboken recently with a fedora atop his head, only to be told there was a no-hat policy.
"It just floored me," says the 38-year-old. "I said 'I'm not wearing a baseball cap or a ski hat, I'm wearing an $80 fedora!' He grudgingly obliged and held the hat in his hand all night.

The fashion trend has prompted some rethinking of indoor hat etiquette at the Emily Post Institute. Spokeswoman Lizzie Post, the great-great-granddaughter of Emily Post, says it is now OK if a man is wearing a hat at a bar or nightclub as part of his style. "In that kind of situation, I'd feel cool with it," she says.

But when being introduced to someone, "that's when I'd remove the hat or maybe tilt it back a little so the brim isn't in your eyes and the person can see your face," she says. "It really comes down to people like making eye contact during an introduction and a hat can sometimes block that."

Several students at Lycee International de Los Angeles in Los Angeles started wearing pageboy hats and fedoras to school in the past year. When reminded of the school's dress code barring hats in the building, some students became defensive about why they should be allowed to keep them on.

"Responses range from complaints that their hair is messed up, that it is part of their outfit, it doesn't affect their work, et cetera…" says Sarah Davis-Weyman, an elementary English teacher at the school's Los Feliz campus. "Most of the time, the kids rush to put their hats back on for recess and lunch."

Sometimes, students are in too much of a rush. Harper Rubin recalls getting into a little "incident" with Ms. Davis-Weyman, who reprimanded him when he put on his hat in the hall as students were lining up to go outside.

"I didn't totally agree with that," says the 11-year-old, who admits he made a big deal out of it. "I know you take your hat off inside but I didn't think it went that far," he says.

Other guys base decisions on whether to remove their hats on how classy a joint is. Luis Quaresma, of San Jose, Calif., who likes wearing fedoras, says "If I'm going for fast food, I'll leave it on. If I'm having a nice sit-down dinner, I'll take it off." When out at a party or club, the 30-year-old says, "I don't take my hat off unless girls want me to take it off."

Some younger men do follow the traditional rules of indoor hat etiquette but it isn't always appreciated. "It came back crushed," recalls 30-year-old Vasabjit Banerjee, of the fedora he turned over to the coat check at a restaurant a little over a year ago.

The general decline in hat wearing led to the demise of proper hat racks in restaurants and bars. Mr. Banerjee, who lives in Bloomington, Ind., says he now puts his hats on a chair beside him or on the table when in restaurants.

link

Sunday, April 18, 2010

The 'Optimo'-l Summer Hat

The Optimo style straw hat (not to be confused with the Optimo hat works in Chicago) is considered to be a somewhat outdated style hat by many in the mainstream.

Thankfully we're not in the mainstream, here.

The unique look of the open crown with a solitary ridge running down the center of the crown is a conservative (read old fashioned) and therefore a somewhat daring (in this day and age) shape to give a hat. So its name 'Optimo' is well deserved, as I consider it the king of summer straws.


click images to enlarge


Finding a vintage Optimo straw is difficult: while popular back in the day, the fedora-style Panama hat still took first place in the hearts and on the heads of hat wearers. Seeing an Optimo straw on the head of a man meant he was a little bit of a dandy and that the rest of his attire would not disappoint.



And so, I'd never seen let alone handled a vintage Optimo. Until a couple weeks ago.

That's when I bought this beauty from the 1930s:




It's a Stetson, as are so many fine quality hats from that era. The very finely and tightly woven straw was in perfect condition and still flexible.



No stains on the thin bi-colored ribbon and bow. The ventilated sweatband in beautiful condition. Size 7 3/8.



Pristine. Rare. Not my size.





So, I sold it the same day I got it. Truthfully, it sold within 5 minutes of being offered.
And don't ask the price. Let's just say it was fair for both the seller and buyer and that both are very happy with the deal.


But one thing's for sure: if you ever see me scouring the thrift shops and antique malls, I'll still be looking for that King, the Optimo.

In my size.

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Use Your Hat

They're not just for wearing.



Have some fun with 'em.

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Hiatus Hats

I took a short hiatus and will do so from time to time. Writing, photographing and otherwise researching for a blog takes quite a bit of time and effort so a break is in order every so often.


And while I was away I did some 'vintaging'. Came across the two hats below.


First is this early '40s Imperial Stetson. This is a rare hat. Imperials are hard to find nowadays, especially in this condition. Also, the sweatband is white, something usually only seen in some '20s hats and the liner is an amazing blue; quite a striking combo. Next, the condition and color (blue-ish silver) are fantastic. It glows. Last but not least, as the last photo of this hat shows it was a factory reject. Don't ask me why, I don't see any flaws but it was originally sold at a discounted price.

I paid only $42, a steal.


click photos to enlarge







Beautiful:




Factory reject!




And the second hat is this late '30s to early '40s Royal De Luxe Stetson. A fine quality hat but not as nice as the Imperial shown above.

Fantastic shape to it, the 'perfect' vintage fedora like the ones you see in movies: tall angular crown; wide swooping brim, wide brim-edge binding.
This one was $50, another steal of a price. A nice soft gray color with contrasting edge binding.

click photos to enlarge









Deals are still around and these two fantastic hats are evidence of that. Get out there and get vintaging!

Sunday, November 29, 2009

Meet the Fuzzies

'Fuzzy' hats, also known as "long hairs", "velvours" and "kitten finish hats" were quite popular during the Golden Era, particularly during the 'teens, '20s and into the '30s. They even soldiered on through to the 1950s, though the form and style had changed significantly.

Check out these two scans from a 1922 Mont. Ward catalog (click photos to enlarge):




Notice that the crowns were very tall, over 5" while the brims remained medium to narrow width. This was fairly common during this period and into the 1930s.


The Turgis fedora below is from the late 1920s or early 1930s. Note that is has the same tall crown (5") and narrow brim (2 1/8") as the hats pictured above. The fuzziness of this hat is on the long end of the fur length spectrum, thus making it very soft and fluffy. The fur of this hat could easily be combed.


Long haired hats are made a little differently from regular fedoras. While the fur used in regular fedoras is cut short and densely compacted, the fur used in long hair fedoras is cut longer and allowed to stand up, making for the fluffy appearance and soft feel.





Next is a 1940s Royal Stetson long hair with a rather crazy ribbon. Note that this hat falls into the medium area of hair length on the fuzziness spectrum: not as long as the Turgis above but still fairly long.


Interestingly this hat is meant for warmer weather, as the lack of a liner and the company tag attached to the inside top of the crown indicates:


Last but not least, this 1950s Stevens hat is on the very short end of the fuzziness spectrum. It is still a very soft fur hat and fuzzier than regular fedoras of the time but not as soft or fuzzy as either of the two previous hats.



As a side note, Adolf Hitler favored very long haired hats similar to the Turgis pictured above. That being said, long haired hats were a very popular style in Germany during the 1930s, especially in the Bavarian region so to associate the fuzzy fedora primarily with Hitler would be a great disservice to millinery history.






And while the fuzzy fedora is thankfully not usually associated with Hitler, the 1970s turned it into something for pimps and gansters.

What a shame.

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