Showing posts with label movies. Show all posts
Showing posts with label movies. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Hollywood: Inventor of Legend, Destroyer of Vintage

Hollywood has been an important force in the American social scene for about a century now, often giving us inspirational, insightful and, no doubt, entertaining films and television. Rocky, It's a Wonderful Life, The Best Years of Our Lives, Gone With the Wind, Rear Window, etc. The list goes on.

Those films and many others are legends, a normal part of popular culture. That's what Hollywood is known for: creating and changing popular culture.


Kid Galahad


Something Hollywood is not well know for is destroying vintage clothing but it is second to none in that regard.

It may or may not be common knowledge that Hollywood regularly uses original vintage clothing in the making of its films and TV shows. There are two main reasons for this: first, modern reproductions are often unable to capture the look and feel of Golden Era clothing and, secondly, real vintage clothing is often much cheaper to buy or rent than it is to reproduce. And that second part, the price, is the main reason Hollywood opts for the real deal.

And here's the rub: film and theater are rough business and things get destroyed, especially 70-year-old clothing. Look at the recent movie "Hugo" by director Martin Scorsese. According to the costume designer for that movie, Sandy Powell, hundreds of vintage pieces were destroyed during filming:

"There were literally over 1,000 costumes, so it took us a long time. We contracted costume rental companies, and we actually did a lot of buying, we sort of scoured markets and secondhand stores both in London where it was filmed and also in Paris; there are great flea markets there. And then we were filming so long, some of the extras were wearing the same clothing for weeks on end, and a lot of the original vintage pieces actually ended up falling apart, disintegrating."


The movie "Titanic" was just as bad, using many original vintage pieces during filming, especially dresses and gowns.  These were unfortunately shredded by the end of filming, just like the pieces used in "Hugo".
 
History disintegrating and being destroyed just to make a movie. If an architecturally important building or a valuable piece of artwork were purposely destroyed for the filming of a movie there would be an outcry from the media and the public. Yet when hundreds of historical pieces of clothing are allowed to fall apart for the same reason there is nothing.

Vintage fedora ruined in "Boardwalk Empire".


Several months ago I was approached by a costume designer from a popular and well known cable TV channel. They were looking for original 1940s/early 1950s pieces of men's clothing for an upcoming series about a detective in 1950s Los Angeles.  I was enthusiastic about supplying vintage to be used in the production of the TV show but soon remembered the horror stories like those above.  As a result, although I would have loved to participate in and supply the filming, I denied the studio both the sale and rental of my vintage (many of the same pieces found at the haberdashery).  I was even told by the costume designer that pieces rented were not guaranteed to be returned in the same condition and may not be returned at all, having 'disappeared' from the set.  And anything bought might be thrown out after filming.

That is unacceptable.

Vintage is a non-renewable resource.  Once it's gone, it's gone.  Reproductions will always be around and plentiful but collectors of vintage clothing are like the Hollywood studios: we prefer the real deal.  And while vintage is still fairly easy to find it is getting more difficult.  Eventually it will be impossible to find.  The days of large costume departments are gone: it's much easier (and cheaper) to buy 'new' costumes for a movie and throw them out at the end of filming.  It's the result of our disposable society.

What can be done to stem the destruction that Hollywood is sowing?  Little if anything.  No one really cares, except for those few vintage nerds like ourselves.  All we can do is watch history disappear piece by piece, right before our eyes. 

And all of it caught on film...

Saturday, January 5, 2008

Non-vintage Vintage Movies

For a moment I'm putting the sartorialist aspect of this blog on the back burner for something a bit more...entertaining.

Hollywood, as out of touch as it is, has found it nearly impossible to ignore the Golden Age. It was a time period that is so close to us, roughly only 70 years ago, but seems so completely different from how we know life today. It was a fleeting moment in the history of humankind, a transition from the old pre-modern ways that formed so many of our western traditions to the post-modern world where those same traditions are being tested and stood on end. The Golden Age was a cocktail mixture of the new and the old; where automobiles still had graceful lines, Art Deco was the main design element and clothing not only looked good but was functional. Even war was waged differently, with advanced assault rifles still being made of wood and steel and airplanes advancing from metal and fabric biplanes to aluminum jets within a short decade. Neither before or since has so much changed so quickly.

That is why we are unable to ignore the struggles, challenges, triumphs, victories and defeats of the Golden Age. Neither can Hollywood.
Here are some of my favorite non-vintage vintage movies, filmed no earlier than 1970 and in no particular order.


Chinatown (1974)
L.A. is in the middle of a drought in the mid-1930s and there's a growing battle over water. P.I. Jake Gittes (Jack Nicholson) is sent to investigate the city water commissioner and stumples upon a murder.
A classic Film Noir, "Chinatown" has so many twists and turns and a surprise ending it'll make your head swim. Filled with humor, some dark, this movie will make you both laugh and cry.
"Forget it, Jake. It's Chinatown."

The Sting (1973)
Portraying two grifters trying to make the Chicago big con in 1936, "The Sting" is another vintage masterpiece from the early 1970s. With the interaction between Robert Redford and Paul Newman it was bound to be a classic; the deal was sealed with actor Robert Shaw playing the bad guy.
Great humor and plot twists in this classic film the family will enjoy.

"Your boss is quite a card player, Mr. Kelly; how does he do it?"
"He cheats."




The Road to Perdition (2002)
A more recent film, "The Road to Perdition" is based upon a graphic novel. This is a dark film dealing with the struggles of a mobster and his son as they seek revenge for several murders in a small Irish gang-ruled town. Paul Newman stars as the old head of the gang who has to choose between his spoiled biological son and his much beloved "adopted" son.




Seabiscuit (2003)

An inspiring true depression-era story of a too large jocky riding a too small race horse into the history books, beating all odds. It is a story of the little guy beating the big and powerful and is an uplifting story.


The Natural (1984)

Robert Redford stars as a mysterious and seemingly useless baseball player who finally makes the big league and is given a chance, turning into a baseball sensation. But the powers that be are against him as he deals with a medical condition that could not only end his career but also kill him.
A great vintage sports movie with several back-tingling moments.

Here's a new one due to be released in the summer, 2008:



Leatherheads
George Clooney, John Krasinksi and Renee Zellweger star in a 1920s-era story about the newly born professional football league. Clooney portrays a burned out football player who recruits the youthful and up and coming Krasinski to join the struggling league. This romantic comedy looks quite promising and I am looking forward to it, though I am not a big fan of Clooney.


The website and trailer for this movie can be found at http://www.leatherheads.com/.


I hope you enjoyed this quick look at some of my favorite modern vintage movies.

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