Thursday, July 30, 2009

1940 Mont. Ward Spring Summer Suits, Part 7

It's been a while so let's get back into this series.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6

Who says you can't use a suit jacket as a sports coat? The suit below was meant to be used this way. The "no suit jacket as sports coat" rule is a modern creation and should be taken with a grain of salt.

Note the pinched front that was a short-lived fad for the youth in the late 1930s and early 1940s and the patch pockets. Also interesting is the shoulder gusset (bi-swing back) lacking a belted back, the two being rather commonly combined during this time period. Four button jacket instead of six like your grandpa's suit.

Also take note of the shipping weight: 5 pounds for a two piece suit. Modern material density and weight (along with the quality) have fallen far from the tree.

click photos to enlarge

Look, another bi-swing back that lacks the belted back. A neat sports coat in the truest sense of the word. Note the green again.
A couple of great collegiate looks for the young beau.

Sunday, July 26, 2009

WIW: '30s or '50s?

The look I went for today could be from anytime between the 1930s to the mid-1950s. It's a pretty timeless look, pairing a double breasted jacket with an open collar shirt.

It was also rather cool to wear on a hot day. The trousers are a linen/rayon blend and helped me stay cool.

click photos to enlarge

Hanging with my buddy Sheb Wooley, our new two month old kitten. To say he's a bit of a runt would be an understatement.
WIW today was inspired by the look on the left in this illustration, which is from a 1930s Esquire:

It's a bit daring to go tieless with a more formal double breasted jacket as opposed to single breasted but it can work if done well.

Sunday, July 19, 2009

WIW: the 1930s in Blue

The belted back jacket and tie are from the 1930s while the white Wormser fedora is from the early '40s, maybe late '30s. The pocket square is vintage as well.

Everything else is modern.

click photos to enlarge

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Remaking the Ascot

One of the 5 things I'd really like to see make a comeback, the current embodiment of the ascot is the one most stereotyped: it's only for movie stars and/or snobs. While it's nice that Ashton Kutcher vowed to bring back the ascot, he first needs to learn how to wear one. The Return of the Ascot movement needs the likes of Cary Grant at its head.

In olden days the ascot, while still a bit of a higher social standard, perhaps did not have the anti-normal person stigma that it does today. Anyways, back then every man wore a tie and the ascot is just a more casual and dashing form of neckwear. Therefore, I'd like to see the ascot return as an 'everyman' item with no social commentary associated with it. The ascot is also a versatile garment that can tie together or perhaps even make a casual outfit:

click photos to enlarge

Tying an ascot is simple. There are many ways to tie one but the most common way is like tying a Four-In-Hand except you don't tuck the loose end through the knot at the end.
This method assures that the ascot is worn high and tight rather than the modern low and loose fashion attempted by Kutcher and other Hollywood characters today.
The other ways it can be tied are numerous. The summer scarf, a close relative of the ascot, should also be considered.
click photos to enlarge

And while the ascot is most often considered a summer item usually made of lightweight silk or rayon, there are also spring/autumn/winter counterparts made of heavier materials.

An ascot is great for a day of rest and relaxation, when a regular tie would be too stuffy.

Linen, silk and rayon summer scarves can take the place of the ascot if you want to experiment. Wear over a shirt or if you a bit on the lazy/daring side you can take notes from vintage summer scarf wearers and go sans shirt, using the scarf to hide that fact.
The return of the ascot will never be as it once was but if we work at it perhaps we can remove the social commentary that has been built into over the years.

Monday, July 6, 2009


A simple early '50s casual look.

-modern shirt
-early '50s gabardine suit
-modern white saddleshoes

click to enlarge


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