Autumn Inspiration

If you live in the northern hemisphere, Fall has officially fallen upon you. While our cousins in the lower half of the globe are gearing up for summer with linen, panama hats and spectators, we lucky folks are putting those things away and pulling out the big guns.

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Not that there's anything wrong with those summer articles. But Autumn is my favorite season, though every season has its own special characteristics and holidays to offer. It's just that after a long, hot summer it's nice to be able to snuggle up under a blanket and just relax with a cup of hot chocolate while watching a movie. Sure you're wasting the day but it's not like it's warm enough outside to do anything anyways...

And there's nothing like donning a suit that weighs 8 pounds, has great colors/textures and drapes so wonderfully.

This Autumn and winter take a cue from nature and use not only colors but also textures found out of doors. Pretty much every color imaginable can be found once the air starts turning cold but the warm burnt colors like orange, yellow red and brown are most prevelant. Use them to your advantage.



You can do this by either complimenting those natural colors, which is easiest and most popular, or contrasting them with cooler colors.

Take a few minutes to look over the following illustrations from the 1930s. Notice the color combinations and textures and be inspired to experiment with your wardrobe as the air turns cold.

A corduroy suit? Yes, please.

The fur lapels are a nice touch.

WIW: Engaged!

Saturday I took my lovely new fiancée Cassie on a special date. We dressed to the nines, had dinner, I popped the question during a walk around town (she said yes) and then I took her to a surprise concert featuring Andre Rieu and his orchestra before heading to the Cheesecake Factory with some friends. I highly recommend going to Andre Rieu's concert, btw.

Enjoy the following photos with the WIW rundown towards the bottom.

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Heading out on the town:

At the Cheesecake Factory:

Cassie's new accessory:

On to the WIW portion of this post. I don't have any good full length shots of Cassie because of the surprise nature of the date but here's what she was wearing:
-modern elegant, silky striped dress
-vintage pearl earrings
-modern cream-colored high heels
-vintage long gloves
-retro navy handbag
-modern cashmere shawl
-new diamond ring

Simple rundown of my outfit:
-1940s dinner suit
-1930s 5th Avenue homburg
-modern Allen Edmond patent leather shoes
-modern formal shirt (with a collar that's a tad large)
-modern gloves

Cassie and I had a great time and are looking forward to a life together.

WIW: The '70s Weren't All Bad

After a couple weeks of unbearable heat, we've had several weeks of beautiful weather. A little drizzly today but very nice.

Today I broke out the early 1960s/late 1970s linen jacket I've had for a short time. I widened the button stance to improve the proportions and help it fit me better and the sleeves probably needed to be lengthened but it's not a big deal.

The 1970s are seared into our minds for being an awful era for style. Parts of it, however, were not so bad as this classically styled jacket can attest to. Not a lick of polyester is present in the 100% linen material.

The trousers are early 1950s gabardine Hollywood-waist trousers. They go very well with with the linen jacket.

Usually for a summer look I'll wear a blue jacket with cream trousers; today I switched the traditional color scheme, putting cream on top of the blue and creating a striking appearance.

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My cute photographer:

Allen Edmonds Fall Catalog

The Fall 2011 AE catalog is now out. You'll notice many of the regular styles along with a few new ones including those featured in the "Independence Collection". A longwing with less bulky soles? Yes, please.

Allen Edmonds is a quality shoe company that not only makes a very fine product but will also refurbish and refinish old and used AE shoes at a very fair price. I own several pairs of AE shoes and have been very happy with their fit, finish, style and comfort. The average price for a pair of Allen Edmonds shoes is $300 though prices vary depending on style and collection. These aren't the average $100 dress shoe you find at the mall; these will last a lifetime or longer if cared for properly.


Allen Edmonds is just one mid- to upper price and quality range shoe manufacturer that creates products on par with the style and quality of vintage manufacturers. Don't hesitate to make a purchase from this company, especially now that the new Fall styles are out.

WIW: Heat and Hollywood

To beat the heat sometimes you have to go the simple route: shirt, tie and trousers. No suit, no jacket. It makes for a classic look in the heat of the day, especially if the trousers are high-waisted.

-1950s NOS Hollywood Waist trousers
-1940s painted palm tree tie
-1940s barely used Freeman shoes
-1940s Stetson Panama hat
-Modern shirt

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The trousers shown were until recently NOS (New-Old-Stock) meaning they were never worn, never hemmed and still had the original tags attached. Finding such an item is rare, especially when you factor in that these are highly desirable Hollywood-waisted trousers, not to mention the baby blue color.

What is a Hollywood Waist? As the photo below shows, a Hollywood Waist has no waistband. The material is continuous from the leg hem all the way up to the waist. Such a waist makes for a sleek pant.


It also helps that Hollywood-waisted trousers are normally very high-waisted with a rise of 12 inches or greater. Trousers with such high waists will sit at or above the wearer's navel and around the natural waistline, making them wear more comfortably than trousers that sit on the hips. It also gives the wearer a more athletic and long-legged appearance, something shorter men should utilize. Though, there is a point at which trousers can become too high waisted...



^I have to admit, those do drape pretty well.

But I digress.

Of note is the 'slubbing', those woven lines in the fabric. Slubbing could be considered a flaw in the material but is often used to good effect as decoration and texture. Slubbing is quite common in Golden Era clothing, specifically from the mid-1940s through to the 1950s.

Note the slubbing as well as the fine workmanship of the shoes:



The original tag for my trousers, priced at $6.95 which is roughly $63 in today's money. I'm happy to have paid only $25 for 'em.

Four Women and Men's Hats

Paul's Hat Works of San Francisco has been open for over 90 years and is now owned by four young women who continue the old traditional way of making men's custom hats.

Watch this short video: We Continue in the Old Style

It's good to see some shops are continuing to use the old styles to make hats, especially by members of the opposite sex.

"Ricky": Quintessential Vintage Sportswear

So-called "Ricky" jackets were a staple throughout the Golden Era, particularly during the late 1940s and throughout the 1950s. Gabardine waist-length jackets in bright and crazy colors and patterns evoke images of cool cars, slicked back hair and youthful hipsters from yesteryear like no other piece of clothing.

Which is why I was excited to score the Ricky pictured below.

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The styling this jacket is really cool and sleek as is the color scheme: pinkish-gray and purple. The gathered sleeveheads and the gathered yoke in back add another level of drape to the already drapey rayon gabardine material.

"Super-Calisheen"- whatever that is, it must be good!

It has seen some use throughout its years and sports a few battle scars, but finding a Ricky of this style in this good condition and decent size nowadays requires a stroke of luck and perhaps a blessing from the vintage gods.

Another intriguing aspect of this particular jacket is the outline of some sort of shield patch on the left shoulder:


It would be interesting to know who put what patch on this classic jacket and why. The imagination wanders...