Intentionally Wrinkled

Having traveled a short distance to hang out with a friend this morning, it came to me that linen would make a very good travel fabric.

Here's why.

It wrinkles. It's supposed to wrinkle. A linen suit or jacket without wrinkles is like a car without wheels: they just have to be there for it to work. And since we sit for long periods of time when we travel, our clothes tend to wrinkle even if they aren't supposed to.

So next time you want to travel wearing a suit or jacket, be like Cary Grant and try linen. That way when you arrive wrinkled, it looks natural. It looks right.


Of course your suit or jacket can't just be wrinkled, but it has to be wrinkled in the right areas: arms, back of the jacket (from sitting), at the back of the knees, etc. You want wrinkles, but you don't want to look like you just pulled the suit out of an overstuffed closet. The wrinkles must be specific.


I took a cue from Mr. Grant today and went all linen, since it was absurdly hot outside. I paired a jacket and trousers of slightly different colors as well as different types of linen to help contrast the look. Throw in a pink 1930s "Fruit of the Loom" tie, spectators and a Stetson and we've got a great summer kit.

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The jacket is made of smooth, finely woven linen while the trousers are a little more course and loosely woven. Both are lightweight and drape very well.


Give linen a try if you're travelling this summer.

The Emperor's New Clothes

Often times a vintage collector will be called out for wearing "costumes". And to the average eye vintage clothing may look like costumes. The styling is different from what most people are use to but vintage is far from costume.

Speaking for myself, I don't consider vintage to be a costume. I live in 2010, own a computer (obviously), drive a vehicle less than ten years old and don't speak like an iGent. I'm modern throughout except for my taste in clothing because, quite frankly, modern clothing is terrible. I prefer the quality, styles and cut that vintage has to offer.

A few vintage collectors may fancy themselves as living in the 1930s and therefore wear a costume, but most do not.



So what exactly is a costume?

In part, it has to do with mindset. Like those few 'vintagers' who believe they are truly living in the Golden Era, costumes (the people wearing them) believe or at the very least act like they are something they are not. In order for there to be a costume there first must be something that is make believe. And mindset is the gateway through which something becomes an act.

On the other side of the viewing glass, the viewer's mindset is just as important as the wearer's. Movies and false notions of the Golden Era have shaped the viewer's mind into thinking that anything vintage looking or inspired by vintage is a costume: a fedora (any fedora) gets the ubiquitous Indiana Jones remark; a pinstripe double breasted suit becomes a gangster suit; full cut trousers transform into a zoot suit, etc. Rather than trying to learn about and understand clothing from the Golden Era and the folks to collect it, most Joes use their ignorance of the period as a crutch.



Physically, a costume is false. On the outside it looks pretty good, like the real deal. But inside, down to the details it is ugly. Costumes are thrown together with budget and ease of production in mind. Halloween costumes are flimsy. Most stage costumes are pieced together from what can be found.
And most importantly, costumes don't fit right. They're made to create a certain appearance and nothing more.



Here's where I might ruffle some feathers.
Rather than 'vintagers' being the ones wearing costumes, I argue that iGents and other folks who wear ill-fitting modern pieces are really the ones who wear costumes.
These are the trademarks of modern costumes: low armholes, paper-thin fabrics, horrible fits and cuts made by machines (off-the-rack) and even by a surprising number of modern tailors (made-to-measure and bespoke), and a super high price tag. All one must do to find such costumes is search the numberous online clothing fora.

So rather than seeing a different clothing style as a costume, first look and see if it meets the above trademarks of a costume. And if it does, rest assured that it's the emperor's new clothes.

WIW: Casual in the Afternoon

The weather can't seem to make up its mind. One day it's 80 degrees out, the next it's down in the 50s.

Warm weather will come and stay, but for now I'm bundled up.


Yesterday I wore my mid-'40s flannel suit to help fight off the cold morning air. The tie is late-'20s/early-'30s French, a really neat floral design. The hat is a 1930s Adam. Mixing brown and black (very dark gray in this case) can work if the colors and shades are right.

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After church I finished fixing up and cleaning my 'new' 1970s Schwinn Suburban. Nothing like riding a vintage bike! Really comfortable to ride and I love the big, padded seat.
The shirt is a ligher weight flannel from Bass Pro Shop.


Can't wait to take it out again when the weather is warmer.

WIW: Lounging

Yesterday was beautiful. I was a bit under the weather but not enough to enjoy the weather. It was warm and sunny with big puffy clouds in the sunny sky. Isolated rainstorms rolled through the area and every so often we'd get a light rain for 5 or 10 minutes while it was still sunny outside.

There's nothing like the smell of a cool rain on the hot, dusty concrete.





The light-weight cotton shirt and linen trousers kept me cool while the hat and boat shoes added some color.

The 'Optimo'-l Summer Hat

The Optimo style straw hat (not to be confused with the Optimo hat works in Chicago) is considered to be a somewhat outdated style hat by many in the mainstream.

Thankfully we're not in the mainstream, here.

The unique look of the open crown with a solitary ridge running down the center of the crown is a conservative (read old fashioned) and therefore a somewhat daring (in this day and age) shape to give a hat. So its name 'Optimo' is well deserved, as I consider it the king of summer straws.

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Finding a vintage Optimo straw is difficult: while popular back in the day, the fedora-style Panama hat still took first place in the hearts and on the heads of hat wearers. Seeing an Optimo straw on the head of a man meant he was a little bit of a dandy and that the rest of his attire would not disappoint.



And so, I'd never seen let alone handled a vintage Optimo. Until a couple weeks ago.

That's when I bought this beauty from the 1930s:




It's a Stetson, as are so many fine quality hats from that era. The very finely and tightly woven straw was in perfect condition and still flexible.



No stains on the thin bi-colored ribbon and bow. The ventilated sweatband in beautiful condition. Size 7 3/8.



Pristine. Rare. Not my size.





So, I sold it the same day I got it. Truthfully, it sold within 5 minutes of being offered.
And don't ask the price. Let's just say it was fair for both the seller and buyer and that both are very happy with the deal.


But one thing's for sure: if you ever see me scouring the thrift shops and antique malls, I'll still be looking for that King, the Optimo.

In my size.

You Don't Have to be Boating...

...to wear canvas boat shoes. These casual summer shoes are a classic and perfect for bumming around your place, making a quick trip in-town or exploring the countryside on a hot summer day. Go sockless to avoid that hapless old man look.



Wear with pretty much whatever you want that's casual, especially a lightweight button-down shirt, linen trousers and a Panama hat.

For those of you looking for a pair, the best deal I've found are (surprisingly) Faded Glory shoes from Walmart. They're $12-$14 depending upon your area and come in two canvas colors: blue (pictured above) and light gray. My (blue) pair from Wally World have been comfortable and durable so far this Spring and required no breaking in.

Enjoy the warm weather and check out these classic shoes.

Use Your Hat

They're not just for wearing.



Have some fun with 'em.