Owning the Vintage Military Look

Surplus military clothing has always been a go-to option for many people within the last century; whether for rugged outdoor activities or ironic anti-war protesting, military clothing was there.  That's because surplus is abundant, it tends to be fairly well-made, and it's cheap.

Putting modern surplus to use is easy, but finding and using vintage military pieces the right way to create the kind of look you want is difficult.  You first must decide what kind of look you're going for.  Stylish and mature?  Rugged and carefree?  Dark and mysterious?

Depending upon which you decide, there is a plethora of military surplus from which to choose.  M65 jackets, trench coats, various military caps, even different styles of camouflage can work.  Choosing the right pieces and colors/patterns will aid you in creating your look.  Just be wary of using too much camouflage or camo that is too loud or just doesn't work.  

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The stylish, old-world aristocratic look in the photo above was put together using a WW2-era U.S. Marine Corp. jacket combined with vintage civilian pieces.  This shows us that utilizing one or perhaps even two military pieces with civilian pieces is key.  If we take multiple military pieces and put them together we'll look like we're trying too hard or, worse yet, we'll look like we just came out of combat.  Simplicity and moderation are the keys to make the vintage military look work well.  Too much military and you look like a soldier, too little and it won't be unique.


Below is a pretty poor quality 'selfie' of myself several months ago while it was still cool outside.  I'm wearing a vintage newsboy cap, an unissued M43 combat jacket, a rare original WW2 paratrooper's scarf made of camouflage parachute material, and, unseen, a pair of dress trousers (look at that ugly mug).

I've combined two vintage military pieces with other rather manly accoutrements to create what I believe to be a rugged yet stylish and maybe even 'elegant' look.  Something that stands out in the crowd, is pleasing to the eye, but still looks tough while remaining pretty casual.  It's something you'd wear for a stroll in the country or to see a man about a dog.

A favorite style of jacket of mine is the old M42 paratrooper jacket.  With it's large, bellowed saddle pockets, belted waist, angled chest pockets, and gusseted back not only looks great but speaks of utilitarianism.  It's a great look that could, if desired, be paired with either jeans or trousers for a casual look.

The M42 brings to mind the safari jackets of old or even the famous Belstaff racing jacket.

Heck, there's even a reproduction M42 available in modern Multicam camouflage.  I actually kind of like it.

There's all sorts of vintage military pieces that you can use to create your own, unique military inspired look.  Experiment with what you can find to see what works and what doesn't.  Don't just wear the woodland camouflage pants like everyone else, try something new and unusual, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised!  The choices are limitless.

Custom-made M-1 Helmets

Following the 70th anniversary of the Normandy Landings, here's something a bit off the beaten path for this vintage blog.  You can now get custom-created M-1 helmets refurbished to WW2 standards at the Houndstooth Kid Haberdashery.  These are perfect for reenactors or if you are just looking for an attractive display piece.

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What does this mean exactly?   I can recreate either WW2 U.S. infantry or airborne helmet shells. These postwar shells are refurbished to plain-jane, standard as-issued helmets and you can add on any markings, camo, etc. that you wish.  Airborne markings? MP markings? Medic markings? Camo? 'Follow me' bars? No problem.  These are individually hand-crafted to your specifications.

I take a postwar shell, strip off the awful silica texture and apple green paint, paint it with correct extra-flat OD paint and texture it with cork, and then bar tack the repro chinstraps onto the shell.  I then hand paint any markings and/or camo you want.

A before and after shot of an M1C helmet for a fellow reenactor.

The liner is a decent repro made of shiny plastic, so I also paint the outside of the liner with flat OD paint to make it look more correct.  I can provide either infantry or airborne liners.  These liners have OD7 webbing and are green inside, so not the most accurate, however most non-reenacting folks don't know the difference and most likely won't even see the inside of the liner. These fit both WW2 and postwar shells but fit a tad tight. Overall, I'm happy with them seeing how expensive USGI liners are becoming these days.  I don't yet have liners up for sale on the Etsy site but should soon.


These helmets are strictly for reenacting and/or display purposes. If you're a WW2 reenactor or just want a nice display piece, these are for you.  They look great as the photos below can attest to.

The M1C from the comparison photo above.

An infantry helmet I created for my 41st Armored Infantry Regiment, 2nd Armored Division impression.  The 2nd Armored emblem was hand painted and the entire helmet lightly aged to give it that combat-used look.

Photos of the above helmet in use, along with another one of my infantry helmets being worn by a fellow reenactor at an airsoft game.

Here's an M1C airborne helmet I created for myself out of a rusted late-WW2 shell.  Detail shots are included, as well as shots of the airborne liner.

Showing the airborne chinstraps.

Detail shot of the corking and the chinstrap bar tack.

The repro airborne liner.  The scuffs are from being in the shell.

Interior shot.  The exterior was also shiny plastic until painted.

How I intend to use it: with a piece of camo parachute material, as was occasionally done by paratroopers and infantrymen alike.

Some comparison shots of my M1C (left) and an early-war infantry M-1 (right).  Note that the paint color of original shells often differed depending upon manufacturer and the period of the war they were made, just like original webgear and uniforms throughout the war.  There was no perfect standard.  While different, both the reproduction and original helmets shown in the photos below are accurate for the Second World War.

Detail of the corking.

Liners.  Repro on the left, original on the right.

So, if you're interested either go to the Houndstooth Haberdashery and check out your options and pricing or contact me at houndstoothkid@hotmail.com.  I look forward to being able to recreate a piece of history for you to wear and display.

D-Day: 70th Anniversary

70 years ago today Allied soldiers parachuted into and stormed the wave-swept beaches of Normandy.  It was the greatest invasion in history.  Thousands of American, British, Canadian, Free-French soldiers and French Resistance fighters gave their lives on this day in history.  Remember their sacrifice.

Below are some interesting links to browse as you remember the battle that raged 70 years ago.

Then and Now images

93 year-old paratrooper jumps again

Great color footage from the invasion and beyond

British veteran goes AWOL from nursing home to attend D-Day ceremonies

The myths of D-Day

Video: the C-47s of D-Day

Exercise Tiger: deadly practice for D-Day

Darker side of the invasion: treatment of collaborators

Video: D-Day veteran graduates from high school

Eisenhower's 'soul-racking' D-Day decision

D-Day through the lens of a regular soldier 

Another Then and Now photo set

The other side: few remember the fallen foes of Normandy

Iconic photographs from the "Day of Days"



WW2 veterans are passing away at an ever increasing rate.  Remember and thank these men and women, for, like WW1 veterans, eventually there will be no more of them left.

Remember

A New Service Offered by the Houndstooth Kid

This has been something I've considered and thought long and hard about for over a year.  But then I was forced out of my comfort zone when a CEO out in Los Angeles contacted me and asked for a short style consultation.  I'm thankful that he did.

Surprisingly I'm a quiet person, shy around folks I don't know very well.  But that consultation session was so comfortable and enjoyable that I decided to finally open it up as an option.  I'm coming out of my shell.



So here it is.  The Houndstooth Kid is now offering either 30 minute or hour-long style consultations via phone, online (Skype, etc.), or even in person if you are local.  Do you have questions about vintage style or just men's style in general but don't know where to start or don't have enough time to research yourself?  Do you need advice about what to wear to your wedding, how to dress your groomsmen, what to don for a formal event or for any other event for that matter?  You've come to the right place.

You can take advantage of Will's vintage expertise and style with a one-on-one consultation where you ask whatever questions you want.

You can order a style consultation either through the Houndstooth Haberdashery or by contacting Will and requesting a session via the following email address: houndstoothkid@hotmail.com.  You will be contacted by Will to set up a date, time, method of correspondence, and the topics and questions you wish to discuss. You will receive a questionnaire and a receipt for both your payment and the consultation via email.

That's an Odd One, With a Twist...

I've finally photographed that strange jacket I found back in December.  I also moved the buttons back to their original positions and gave it a good cleaning.

It's simply amazing.  Made of dark navy flannel, it is super soft to the touch.  The gusseted pockets are a very nice touch and add subtle character to the front.  I love patch type breast pockets, especially when their gusseted.

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The sleeves also have French cuffs, lending the jacket a bit of a casual feel, like that of a smoking jacket.

If the front has subtle character, the back is outright crazy.  Along with some pleats along the shoulders, it has fairly long bi-swing back gussets at each shoulder blade, allowing for improved arm movement.  If that isn't enough, it also has dual vents.

While the outer flannel material is a bit boring, the interior lining will make your eye bleed.

This is a custom-made piece and has no union tag.  Amazing quality, fantastic flannel, and great styling.  A superb specimen of the 1920s sports coat.

Except for one thing: it's date 1968.

That's right, this 1920s style sports coat was made the same year as the Battle of Khe Sanh, the Tet Offensive, and the My Lai Massacre.  RFK and Martin Luther King Jr. were both assassinated the year this coat was tailored.  Apollo 8 orbited the Moon.

How does a 1920s style sports coat get made 30-40 years after that style died out?  Well, firstly the 1920/1930s style of clothing was making a comeback in the late 1960s and some of it was quite authentic, as this sports coat shows.  Natural fibers were often used in these 1960s reiterations before the polyester craze of the 1970s took hold.  So perhaps it was made by someone trying to keep up with the new fashion of the time, which was the old style of the 1920s.

Or, maybe, as this was a custom piece in a larger size, an older plumper man who longed for his younger years and styles had this piece created.  I recently discussed this sports coat with a fellow vintage aficionado and expert who, upon learning the date, related the story of an old tailor in New York City in the 1960s who made absolutely perfect reproduction pieces for a specific client, often out of vintage 1920s and 1930s fabrics.  Those 1960s-made pieces would be nearly impossible to differentiate from original pieces if it weren't for the 1960s dates on the tailor's tag.  Remember, there were still plenty of tailors in the 1960s who used the old school techniques often seen in suits and sports coats from the 1920s-1940s.

I like to think that the second possibility is the correct one, that an elderly man longed for the "good ol' days" of his youth and therefore commissioned something familiar and at the time, surprisingly, in fashion.  Maybe he had a sports coat just like this one when he was a youth.

Who knows?  All I know is that this is one fantastic piece of vintage, with a twist.

Let the New Wave Begin...

There's a new wave of vintage items arriving for sale at the Houndstooth Haberdashery.  There'll be some very nice pieces coming up within the next two weeks or so for all sizes, styles, and price ranges.

Beginning this next wave strong are two beautiful hats in size 7 1/2.

First is a 1930s slightly 'fuzzy' "University Club" fedora with some gorgeous proportions: a tall, straight-sided crown with a fairly narrow yet shapely brim.  Just the way I like 'em.  This one has no issues at all.  As near perfect condition as an 80ish year old hat can get.  Feast your eyes upon this hat, which can be found for sale by clicking here.

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Now that we have you drooling, check out the next contestant.  It's a 1940s Stetson homburg in black, perfect for that dinner suit you've been dying to wear but didn't because you lacked the right hat.  It's in very nice condition (for being 70ish years old) with only a couple very minor issues that won't keep you from wearing it right out of the box.  

Check out this hat!

Don't miss out on these two spectacular hats.  These kind of quality hats in this size are getting harder to find.  Get your dapper on!

What I Have To Say

As if this blog wasn't enough for me to put my thoughts to 'paper', below are links to interviews I did with two different men's style websites.  Strangely both asked to interview me within the a couple days of each other so I guess it was meant to be.  I thank the owners for contacting me and allowing me to take up valuable room on their sites and time from their schedules.

So with little else to say, here are the interviews.

Well Built Style interview

Keikari interview

Let us know what you think, either at those sites or on this one.