Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts

Monday, March 24, 2014

Let the New Wave Begin...

There's a new wave of vintage items arriving for sale at the Houndstooth Haberdashery.  There'll be some very nice pieces coming up within the next two weeks or so for all sizes, styles, and price ranges.

Beginning this next wave strong are two beautiful hats in size 7 1/2.

First is a 1930s slightly 'fuzzy' "University Club" fedora with some gorgeous proportions: a tall, straight-sided crown with a fairly narrow yet shapely brim.  Just the way I like 'em.  This one has no issues at all.  As near perfect condition as an 80ish year old hat can get.  Feast your eyes upon this hat, which can be found for sale by clicking here.

click images to enlarge







Now that we have you drooling, check out the next contestant.  It's a 1940s Stetson homburg in black, perfect for that dinner suit you've been dying to wear but didn't because you lacked the right hat.  It's in very nice condition (for being 70ish years old) with only a couple very minor issues that won't keep you from wearing it right out of the box.  







Don't miss out on these two spectacular hats.  These kind of quality hats in this size are getting harder to find.  Get your dapper on!






Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Clothes and Self-Perception: Clothing Really Does Make the Man

We've known for a long time that clothes affect how we feel about ourselves. Now a new study shows that the way we dress may also affect our cognitive processes.

"Clothes invade the body and brain, putting the wearer into a different psychological state..."



An interesting article with which I agree. I've always said that dressing well for a special occasion like, say, a job interview or even for church every Sunday prepares us for the task at hand. It's all about mindset: preparation to get that new job or humble ourselves to worship our Creator.

So wearing one's 'Sunday Best' now has scientific data to support it.


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http://www.nytimes.com/2012/04/03/science/clothes-and-self-perception.html?_r=1&ref=science



By SANDRA BLAKESLEE
Published: April 2, 2012

If you wear a white coat that you believe belongs to a doctor, your ability to pay attention increases sharply. But if you wear the same white coat believing it belongs to a painter, you will show no such improvement.

So scientists report after studying a phenomenon they call enclothed cognition: the effects of clothing on cognitive processes.

It is not enough to see a doctor’s coat hanging in your doorway, said Adam D. Galinsky, a professor at the Kellogg School of Management at Northwestern University, who led the study. The effect occurs only if you actually wear the coat and know its symbolic meaning — that physicians tend to be careful, rigorous and good at paying attention.

The findings, on the Web site of The Journal of Experimental Social Psychology, are a twist on a growing scientific field called embodied cognition. We think not just with our brains but with our bodies, Dr. Galinsky said, and our thought processes are based on physical experiences that set off associated abstract concepts. Now it appears that those experiences include the clothes we wear.

“I love the idea of trying to figure out why, when we put on certain clothes, we might more readily take on a role and how that might affect our basic abilities,” said Joshua I. Davis, an assistant professor of psychology at Barnard College and expert on embodied cognition who was not involved with the study. This study does not fully explain how this comes about, he said, but it does suggest that it will be worth exploring various ideas.

There is a huge body of work on embodied cognition, Dr. Galinsky said. The experience of washing your hands is associated with moral purity and ethical judgments. People rate others personally warmer if they hold a hot drink in their hand, and colder if they hold an iced drink. If you carry a heavy clipboard, you will feel more important.

It has long been known that “clothing affects how other people perceive us as well as how we think about ourselves,” Dr. Galinsky said. Other experiments have shown that women who dress in a masculine fashion during a job interview are more likely to be hired, and a teaching assistant who wears formal clothes is perceived as more intelligent than one who dresses more casually.

But the deeper question, the researchers said, is whether the clothing you wear affects your psychological processes. Does your outfit alter how you approach and interact with the world? So Dr. Galinsky and his colleague Hajo Adam conducted three experiments in which the clothes did not vary but their symbolic meaning was manipulated.

In the first, 58 undergraduates were randomly assigned to wear a white lab coat or street clothes. Then they were given a test for selective attention based on their ability to notice incongruities, as when the word “red” appears in the color green. Those who wore the white lab coats made about half as many errors on incongruent trials as those who wore regular clothes.

In the second experiment, 74 students were randomly assigned to one of three options: wearing a doctor’s coat, wearing a painter’s coat or seeing a doctor’s coat. Then they were given a test for sustained attention. They had to look at two very similar pictures side by side on a screen and spot four minor differences, writing them down as quickly as possible.

Those who wore the doctor’s coat, which was identical to the painter’s coat, found more differences. They had acquired heightened attention. Those who wore the painter’s coat or were primed with merely seeing the doctor’s coat found fewer differences between the images.

The third experiment explored this priming effect more thoroughly. Does simply seeing a physical item, like the coat, affect behavior? Students either wore a doctor’s coat or a painter’s coat, or were told to notice a doctor’s lab coat displayed on the desk in front of them for a long period of time. All three groups wrote essays about their thoughts on the coats. Then they were tested for sustained attention.

Again, the group that wore the doctor’s coat showed the greatest improvement in attention. You have to wear the coat, see it on your body and feel it on your skin for it to influence your psychological processes, Dr. Galinsky said.

Clothes invade the body and brain, putting the wearer into a different psychological state, he said. He described his own experience from last Halloween (or maybe it should be called National Enclothed Cognition Day).

He had decided to dress as a pimp, with a fedora, long coat and cane. “When I entered the room, I glided in,” he said. “I felt a very different presence.”

But what happens, he mused, if you wear pimp clothes every day? Or a priest’s robes? Or a police officer’s uniform? Do you become habituated so that cognitive changes do not occur? Do the effects wear off?

More studies are needed, he said.

This article has been revised to reflect the following correction:

Correction: April 6, 2012

An article on Tuesday about the effects of clothing on cognitive processes misstated the name of the journal that published a recent study showing that wearing a doctor’s white coat led subjects to pay sharper attention. It is The Journal of Experimental Social Psychology, not The Journal of Experimental Social Cognition. The article also described the findings of an earlier study incorrectly. In that experiment, people who held a hot drink in their hands rated others personally warmer; it is not the case that people were rated personally warmer if they held a hot drink.


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So when a nation like the United States starts to dress like slobs it's likely that nation will also think and act more and more like slobs and vice versa.

The question here is which came first: the slobby dresser or the slob?

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Hat Etiquette in the Post-modern Age

The Wall Street Journal recently had an article discussing hat etiquette in today's world. If you think about it, guys nowadays either don't know hat etiquette at all or have an outdated view of hat etiquette. Let's face it, hat etiquette hasn't changed since the Golden Era but the rest of the world has.

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Discovering Hats, a New Generation Brims With Anxiety Over Etiquette
Old Rules Flummox Young Hipsters; 'I'm Wearing an $80 Fedora!'

By RAY A. SMITH

Hector Ramirez sort of knows, from watching old movies, that men are supposed to take off their hats when indoors. But the 19-year-old Brown University student wears fedoras in class—with jeans—anyway.

"If I'm wearing a hat and it's part of my look, I don't think I should have to take it off," he says. On a recent trip to New York, an usher at a church had to remind him to take off his fedora. "I was wearing it all day and I guess I kind of just forgot I had it on."

Inspired by designer runway shows, celebrities such as Justin Timberlake and even, in some cases, old pictures of Frank Sinatra, more young men are going mad for hats. But the hat renaissance is creating a quandary for a generation of men and boys who grew up without learning hat-wearing etiquette from their fathers. Many are making up their own rules about when and where to take them off.



The trend may be old hat to hipsters in areas like Williamsburg, Brooklyn, who started wearing fedoras, rounded derby hats and, in warmer weather, straw hats, more than two years ago. But now hats are starting to catch on among some men in suburbs, the Midwest and beyond. Gap and J. Crew say they have witnessed strong hat sales this spring and summer while department stores like Barneys New York have been expanding their assortments after years of general indifference to hats. Sales of designer-brand "blocked" hats such as fedoras and straw hats in particular "are definitely robust," says Jay Bell, a vice president at Barneys.

It's a bittersweet turn of events for hatmakers, who witnessed their business fall off a cliff in the 1960s, when legions of men abandoned wearing hats.

Many companies are no longer around to see the current revival. The number of manufacturers of fur-felt hats, wool-felt hats and hat forms in the U.S. totaled 185 in 1947, according to the Census Bureau. Now there are only three big hatmakers in the U.S. making fur-felt hats and wool-felt hats, says Jack Lambert, a former vice president of the Headwear Association.

Just 20% of hats sold in the U.S. are made in the U.S versus 90% in the 1940s, estimates Mr. Lambert, who is vice president of headwear company Dorfman Pacific.
In the 1930s, '40s, and parts of the '50s, a man wasn't considered fully dressed unless he had a hat on. But by the 1960s, hat wearing fell off, partly as a result of longer hairstyles, cars with lower roofs and resistance from some World War II vets who didn't want to wear things on their heads after wearing helmets for so long.

John F. Kennedy's habit of not wearing a hat was seen as the final blow for hat wearing.

Today, confusion over the rules of hat wearing is leading to some awkward situations.
Eric Soler of Hackensack, N.J., took offense when he tried to enter a bar in Hoboken recently with a fedora atop his head, only to be told there was a no-hat policy.
"It just floored me," says the 38-year-old. "I said 'I'm not wearing a baseball cap or a ski hat, I'm wearing an $80 fedora!' He grudgingly obliged and held the hat in his hand all night.

The fashion trend has prompted some rethinking of indoor hat etiquette at the Emily Post Institute. Spokeswoman Lizzie Post, the great-great-granddaughter of Emily Post, says it is now OK if a man is wearing a hat at a bar or nightclub as part of his style. "In that kind of situation, I'd feel cool with it," she says.

But when being introduced to someone, "that's when I'd remove the hat or maybe tilt it back a little so the brim isn't in your eyes and the person can see your face," she says. "It really comes down to people like making eye contact during an introduction and a hat can sometimes block that."

Several students at Lycee International de Los Angeles in Los Angeles started wearing pageboy hats and fedoras to school in the past year. When reminded of the school's dress code barring hats in the building, some students became defensive about why they should be allowed to keep them on.

"Responses range from complaints that their hair is messed up, that it is part of their outfit, it doesn't affect their work, et cetera…" says Sarah Davis-Weyman, an elementary English teacher at the school's Los Feliz campus. "Most of the time, the kids rush to put their hats back on for recess and lunch."

Sometimes, students are in too much of a rush. Harper Rubin recalls getting into a little "incident" with Ms. Davis-Weyman, who reprimanded him when he put on his hat in the hall as students were lining up to go outside.

"I didn't totally agree with that," says the 11-year-old, who admits he made a big deal out of it. "I know you take your hat off inside but I didn't think it went that far," he says.

Other guys base decisions on whether to remove their hats on how classy a joint is. Luis Quaresma, of San Jose, Calif., who likes wearing fedoras, says "If I'm going for fast food, I'll leave it on. If I'm having a nice sit-down dinner, I'll take it off." When out at a party or club, the 30-year-old says, "I don't take my hat off unless girls want me to take it off."

Some younger men do follow the traditional rules of indoor hat etiquette but it isn't always appreciated. "It came back crushed," recalls 30-year-old Vasabjit Banerjee, of the fedora he turned over to the coat check at a restaurant a little over a year ago.

The general decline in hat wearing led to the demise of proper hat racks in restaurants and bars. Mr. Banerjee, who lives in Bloomington, Ind., says he now puts his hats on a chair beside him or on the table when in restaurants.

link

Monday, May 17, 2010

The Emperor's New Clothes

Often times a vintage collector will be called out for wearing "costumes". And to the average eye vintage clothing may look like costumes. The styling is different from what most people are use to but vintage is far from costume.

Speaking for myself, I don't consider vintage to be a costume. I live in 2010, own a computer (obviously), drive a vehicle less than ten years old and don't speak like an iGent. I'm modern throughout except for my taste in clothing because, quite frankly, modern clothing is terrible. I prefer the quality, styles and cut that vintage has to offer.

A few vintage collectors may fancy themselves as living in the 1930s and therefore wear a costume, but most do not.



So what exactly is a costume?

In part, it has to do with mindset. Like those few 'vintagers' who believe they are truly living in the Golden Era, costumes (the people wearing them) believe or at the very least act like they are something they are not. In order for there to be a costume there first must be something that is make believe. And mindset is the gateway through which something becomes an act.

On the other side of the viewing glass, the viewer's mindset is just as important as the wearer's. Movies and false notions of the Golden Era have shaped the viewer's mind into thinking that anything vintage looking or inspired by vintage is a costume: a fedora (any fedora) gets the ubiquitous Indiana Jones remark; a pinstripe double breasted suit becomes a gangster suit; full cut trousers transform into a zoot suit, etc. Rather than trying to learn about and understand clothing from the Golden Era and the folks to collect it, most Joes use their ignorance of the period as a crutch.



Physically, a costume is false. On the outside it looks pretty good, like the real deal. But inside, down to the details it is ugly. Costumes are thrown together with budget and ease of production in mind. Halloween costumes are flimsy. Most stage costumes are pieced together from what can be found.
And most importantly, costumes don't fit right. They're made to create a certain appearance and nothing more.



Here's where I might ruffle some feathers.
Rather than 'vintagers' being the ones wearing costumes, I argue that iGents and other folks who wear ill-fitting modern pieces are really the ones who wear costumes.
These are the trademarks of modern costumes: low armholes, paper-thin fabrics, horrible fits and cuts made by machines (off-the-rack) and even by a surprising number of modern tailors (made-to-measure and bespoke), and a super high price tag. All one must do to find such costumes is search the numberous online clothing fora.

So rather than seeing a different clothing style as a costume, first look and see if it meets the above trademarks of a costume. And if it does, rest assured that it's the emperor's new clothes.

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Esquire BDRM Finalists- Soaring Eagles or Black Sheep?

Here are the 5 finalists for Esquire's Best Dressed Real Man contest. Sorry to say I didn't make the final cut but there's always next year.

Still, it's a good feeling to know I'm one of the 25 best dressed real men in America, at least according to Esquire. Especially since most of my wardrobe comes from thrift shops.





So, what are your thoughts on these finalists? Are they anything to write home about or has Esquire gone down the tubes? Which of the finalists do you put your money on?

It's interesting to note that all of the finalists are very young, the oldest being 33 years of age. Each year in the past an older gentleman or two have been in the running. Does this mean recent definitions of stylish and fashionable include only the youthful or were there just no stylish older men this year?

Friday, August 7, 2009

The Bad and the Ugly

Let's not fool ourselves: while the Golden Era was just that for men's clothing, things were not perfect. Not everything was elegant, quality made or well thought out.

Let's examine some of those less than perfect looks.


1. The Fish Net Shirt
From Esquire we see the "fish net shirt" on the right (while I don't mind the striped sports coat on the left, the matching 'muffler' is just too much and the two would only be worn in combination together by someone willing to be seen with someone wearing a fish net shirt).

click photo to enlarge
Quite frankly, don't do the fish net and don't be seen with anyone wearing one. Avoid anything fish net, especially if it is a shirt. Of note is the commentary stating that in some areas "shirtless bathing is still prohibited". How things have changed.


2. The White Dress Jacket
While I actually like the look of the mess jacket and it was a rather popular style for a short time in the mid-1930s, it was eventually put aside by most well dressed folks in favor of the traditional dinner jacket and tails.
If you tried to pull the mess jacket off today you'd either be mistaken for a waiter or a member of the military (which, surprisingly, has kept the mess jacket for formal wear).
click photo to enlarge
Too bad Jeeves disapproves of it (starting at the 27 second mark). I think it quite snappy and athletic looking, enhancing the length of the wearer's legs and making him appear taller.

3. Oxford Bags
click photo to enlarge
While the original Oxford Bags (example shown above) were not horrendously bad (originating at Oxford in the 1920s, hence the name, these wide-legged trousers were worn over plus-fours and similar sport trousers after such 'immature' garments were banned by the school for in-class wear), the later mainstream and more extreme cousin of the Oxford Bags did reach a high level of insanity.
While the original Oxford Bags measured no more than 48" in circumference at the cuff, the extreme Bags measured much more, upwards of 56" or more in circumference. Below are examples of such extreme Bags.
click photos to enlarge
The French were the most radical in their use of Oxford Bags. Below is one such example of a French dandy sporting extreme Oxford Bags.
Oxford Bags were popular with the youth and some musicians during the mid- to late 1920s and even into the 1930s before (thankfully) dying out.

These are just a few stinkers of the Golden Era; we'll look at some more at another time.

Monday, August 3, 2009

WSW

What Sheb Wore.

Yesterday our new kitten Sheb Wooley took my sartorial advice and tried a sporty red theme.


His real straw Panama hat and plaid vest (stylishly left unbuttoned) date from the 1960s and show off his healthy physique. How can the ladies resist such a fine specimen of a cat?

The bright yet modest red of his outfit compliments the color of his fur and the feathers tucked into the pugree of his Panama hat add a dapper new dimension to an already sporty look. Of note is the bow of his purgee which is on the right side of the hat. Normally the bow is worn on the left side for males: this new fad was started primarily by Mr. Wooley and shows his ability to tastefully break from certain rules in pursuit of his own personal style.

Sheb is a model for all manly yet elegant cats and his level of sophistication of dress should be striven for by all on the male side of the feline species.


:P

Thursday, July 30, 2009

1940 Mont. Ward Spring Summer Suits, Part 7

It's been a while so let's get back into this series.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6

Who says you can't use a suit jacket as a sports coat? The suit below was meant to be used this way. The "no suit jacket as sports coat" rule is a modern creation and should be taken with a grain of salt.


Note the pinched front that was a short-lived fad for the youth in the late 1930s and early 1940s and the patch pockets. Also interesting is the shoulder gusset (bi-swing back) lacking a belted back, the two being rather commonly combined during this time period. Four button jacket instead of six like your grandpa's suit.

Also take note of the shipping weight: 5 pounds for a two piece suit. Modern material density and weight (along with the quality) have fallen far from the tree.


click photos to enlarge

Look, another bi-swing back that lacks the belted back. A neat sports coat in the truest sense of the word. Note the green again.
A couple of great collegiate looks for the young beau.

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

1940 Mont. Ward Spring Summer Suits, Part 6

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5


Note the very shapely tweed (in Spring!) jacket on the left paired with what could be wool or even gabardine trousers of a slightly different shade. The green is very sharp. Also note the "pinched" front of the green jacket, a short-lived fad that was meant to give the jacket more shape and one that died out with the American entry into the Second World War. A pair of spectator shoes finishes the look.

click to enlarge
The jacket on the right is well proportioned with a belted and pinched back.

click to enlarge

Thursday, June 4, 2009

1940 Mont. Ward Spring/Summer Suits, Part 5

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4

The numberous style choices out of one company were amazing. Plain back, sports back, double breasted, single breasted, the rainbow of colors and fabrics...
click to enlarge


Sunday, April 26, 2009

1940 Mont. Ward Spring/Summer Suits, Part 4

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3


click to enlarge
Note the pleated/pinched front on the jackets above. This was a sporty look for young men and a very short-lived fad thanks to the American entry into the Second World War a year later. Fabric could not be spared for such unusual and uneeded features during the war.



Saturday, April 18, 2009

George Will on Jeans?

Two days ago George Will had an interesting article about, of all things, jeans. Read up and let us know what you think.


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Demon Denim

By George F. WillThursday, April 16, 2009


On any American street, or in any airport or mall, you see the same sad tableau: A 10-year-old boy is walking with his father, whose development was evidently arrested when he was that age, judging by his clothes. Father and son are dressed identically -- running shoes, T-shirts. And jeans, always jeans. If mother is there, she, too, is draped in denim.

Writer Daniel Akst has noticed and has had a constructive conniption. He should be given the Presidential Medal of Freedom. He has earned it by identifying an obnoxious misuse of freedom. Writing in the Wall Street Journal, he has denounced denim, summoning Americans to soul-searching and repentance about the plague of that ubiquitous fabric, which is symptomatic of deep disorders in the national psyche.

It is, he says, a manifestation of "the modern trend toward undifferentiated dressing, in which we all strive to look equally shabby." Denim reflects "our most nostalgic and destructive agrarian longings -- the ones that prompted all those exurban McMansions now sliding off their manicured lawns and into foreclosure." Jeans come prewashed and acid-treated to make them look like what they are not -- authentic work clothes for horny-handed sons of toil and the soil. Denim on the bourgeoisie is, Akst says, the wardrobe equivalent of driving a Hummer to a Whole Foods store -- discordant.

Long ago, when James Dean and Marlon Brando wore it, denim was, Akst says, "a symbol of youthful defiance." Today, Silicon Valley billionaires are rebels without causes beyond poses, wearing jeans when introducing new products. Akst's summa contra denim is grand as far as it goes, but it only scratches the surface of this blight on Americans' surfaces. Denim is the infantile uniform of a nation in which entertainment frequently features childlike adults ("Seinfeld," "Two and a Half Men") and cartoons for adults ("King of the Hill"). Seventy-five percent of American "gamers" -- people who play video games -- are older than 18 and nevertheless are allowed to vote. In their undifferentiated dress, children and their childish parents become undifferentiated audiences for juvenilized movies (the six -- so far -- "Batman" adventures and "Indiana Jones and the Credit-Default Swaps," coming soon to a cineplex near you). Denim is the clerical vestment for the priesthood of all believers in democracy's catechism of leveling -- thou shalt not dress better than society's most slovenly. To do so would be to commit the sin of lookism -- of believing that appearance matters. That heresy leads to denying the universal appropriateness of everything, and then to the elitist assertion that there is good and bad taste.

Denim is the carefully calculated costume of people eager to communicate indifference to appearances. But the appearances that people choose to present in public are cues from which we make inferences about their maturity and respect for those to whom they are presenting themselves.

Do not blame Levi Strauss for the misuse of Levi's. When the Gold Rush began, Strauss moved to San Francisco planning to sell strong fabric for the 49ers' tents and wagon covers. Eventually, however, he made tough pants, reinforced by copper rivets, for the tough men who knelt on the muddy, stony banks of Northern California creeks, panning for gold. Today it is silly for Americans whose closest approximation of physical labor consists of loading their bags of clubs into golf carts to go around in public dressed for driving steers up the Chisholm Trail to the railhead in Abilene.

This is not complicated. For men, sartorial good taste can be reduced to one rule: If Fred Astaire would not have worn it, don't wear it. For women, substitute Grace Kelly.

Edmund Burke -- what he would have thought of the denimization of America can be inferred from his lament that the French Revolution assaulted "the decent drapery of life"; it is a straight line from the fall of the Bastille to the rise of denim -- said: "To make us love our country, our country ought to be lovely." Ours would be much more so if supposed grown-ups would heed St. Paul's first letter to the Corinthians, and St. Barack's inaugural sermon to the Americans, by putting away childish things, starting with denim.

(A confession: The author owns one pair of jeans. Wore them once. Had to. Such was the dress code for former senator Jack Danforth's 70th birthday party, where Jerry Jeff Walker sang his classic "Up Against the Wall, Redneck Mother." Music for a jeans-wearing crowd.)

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2009/04/15/AR2009041502861.html

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

1940 Mont. Ward Spring/Summer Suits, Part 3

Part 1
Part 2

We continue the 1940s Mont. Ward catalog series with this third part. Be sure to click on the photos to see the details and descriptions.

click to enlarge
A wonderful green tweed (again, green seemed to be the color that year) belted back jacket. A Holy Grail for vintage enthusiasts. Also note the number of pockets, creating no need for a vest.




A conservative late-'30s 3-piece suit, good for business. Note the green fedora the subject is holding.


A rather unique suit with a "blade back" (often called a bi-swing back) for better movement in the arms and shoulders. The bi-swing back was often seen combined with belted backs but as the illustration above shows this was not always the case.
Again, note the green fedora.


A fine looking pinstripe suit, something a dandy might be drawn to.

Sunday, March 8, 2009

1940 Mont. Ward Spring/Summer Suits, Part 2

The second of several posts in this series.

Part 1


click to enlarge

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Right At Home...WIW

The September 1940-dated Kaufmann tweed suit I wore today would be right at home in the Mont. Ward catalog in my last post.

1930s 'Adam' ("the first name in hats") fedora.


Context:
When this suit was bought back in September of 1940, the blitz of London had just begun (September 7). Hitler announced on September 17, 1940 that the planned invasion of England (Operation Sealion) was postponed.
The United States had not yet joined in the fighting and hadn't even started its 'Lend-Lease' program with England, Russia, China and other allies.

This suit was born in unsettled times.


Patch pockets, an unusual (for 1940) single short vent, the working faux bottom vest button, lapels that roll to the center button: all trademarks of a well made suit, this time from 1940-- the end of the great pre-war suits.

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

1940 Mont. Ward Spring Summer Suits, Part 1

Oh yes, suit fans, you read correctly. 1940: the last hurrah of the belted back and when green was the color.
Such unusual treatments as the belted back, the bi-swing back, pinch pleated front, the beltless pleated back, patch pockets, etc. will make their appearances throughout this series, so be on the lookout for those.

And, with nothing better to do, here is the first post of the "1940 Mont. Ward catalog suits" series. More to follow in due time.

Be sure to click on the photos to enlarge.






Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Tucker Blair Special Offer

The Tucker Blair company, seller of "classically casual" products such as needlepoint headbands and belts, has given The Houndstooth Kid and its readers a special free shipping offer.





This free shipping offer is only for the readers of this website and will run until February 15th. Think of it as a Valentine gift from us.

All you have to do to receive this free shipping offer is just enter the free shipping code “mrlapel” during checkout.

Don't miss out on this great deal.
Enjoy!

Monday, January 26, 2009

For my 100th post...

A chat with Alan Flusser, author of Style and the Man as well as Dressing the Man.



A very interesting video. And, while I agree with him on many of his points (especially about natural fibers), I'm not a huge fan of how he dresses himself.

But, as they say, those who know the rules best can break them easier.

Monday, January 19, 2009

What I Wore: Back to My Roots

Over time as our wardrobes grow and evolve, somethings, even our most beloved items, fall into disuse. That has unfortunately happened to me.

I needed to get back to my roots.

Sunday I pulled from the dark closest my first wearable vintage piece: a 1950s "Bold Look" jacket. The electric blue herringbone gabardine fabric is something else, a true marvel to behold. So, after months of being hung up, here it is again for you to see.

*1950s jacket
*1950s Lee fedora
*vintage tie
*modern claiborne herringbone trousers
*vintage 'lucky charm' tie bar
*GAP socks
*modern Botany 500 spectator shoes
*modern suspenders

click photos to enlarge




This look is somewhat fashioned after the below illustration, though this comes from the 1930s while my look has a touch of "Bold Look" to it, thanks to the jacket and tie. Even so, a dark jacket paired with contrasting trousers was a very popular style during the Golden Era, especially when worn with spectators.
And while the illustrated look is more for the summer (especially with the cream flannel trousers), it can work just as well in the winter with gray trousers, as I have shown here.

Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Not So Atomic Fleck

The 1950s is famous for it's so-called 'Atomic Fleck' fabric, as it should be.




But the so-called 'atomic' fleck predates the Second World War.

Check out these fabrics and the advertisement, all from the 1930s. Ah, the 1930s: pinnacle of fabric during the 20th century.

click to enlarge




So, even in the past "what is old is new again".

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